Things to do in Varanasi and how to organize your visit

For many travelers, visiting Varanasi is synonymous with getting to know the essence of India. There are many who believe that a trip to India is incomplete without a stop in this sacred city dedicated to Shiva and Ganga.

It is a magical city, where the religious experience takes on a new dimension. Discover with me what to see in Varanasi and when is the best time to visit the holiest city in the world.

Visit Varanasi

Varanasi (वाराणसी) is a city in Uttar Pradesh state. It is located near the state border with Bihar and to the north lies the border with Nepal near Lumbini, where Buddha was born.

With two million inhabitants, there is a Varanasi that expands and develops like the great Indian cities, and an essential part attached to the sacred Ganges River that continues as if anchored in time.

The mythical Varanasi is not an imagination or a tourist product, it is something that is there and that you can feel with all the intensity.

This article always uses the modern name Varanasi, but in the city it is also common to use Banaras (from where Benares comes from) or Kashi, by its name in Antiquity.

What to see in Varanasi

Every time I visit Varanasi I am fascinated by the incredible space of this city. Hindu devotees carry out their rituals among ruined palaces, oblivious to the continuous movement of the ghats and of the boats on the river. Varanasi is a city that fascinates by its intangible heritage, centuries of beliefs and rituals that are kept alive on the banks of the Ganges.

Discover the city with this free tour of Varanasi

The ghats of Varanasi

A ghat is a stairway leading into a river, lake or sea where Hindus perform their ceremonies and purification baths. The ghat also has other uses from hygiene, washing clothes or leisure, to the deposit of votive images or the cremation of corpses.

Varanasi has 88 ghats that line the west bank of the Ganges as it passes through the city from Adi Keshav Ghat where the Varuna empties into the Ganges to Assi Ghat to the south. Most of the ghats in Varanasi are used for pujas and bathing by Hindu worshippers.

Many travelers are unaware that most ghats have a royal origin. Hindu kings built palaces and temples in Varanasi to accumulate good karma, to defend the city or for their personal baths. You can discover the history of all the ghats of Varanasi in other articles.

The best advice to visit the ghats of Varanasi is that instead of moving continuously, you sit and observe. Walk the ghats and sit on a quiet one, one that is not one of the most popular. You will be able to be part of the fascinating daily life of Varanasi, the slow and inexorable passage of time to the rhythm of a cricket match, the fishermen’s card games and the slow circularity of the waters.

Dashashwamedh Ghat

The main ghat of Varanasi is called Dashashwamedh. The myth tells that the god Brahma sacrificed ten horses, a common practice in ancient times so that Hindu kings could demonstrate their sovereignty.

The present complex was built by the Maratha queen of Indore, Ahilyabai Holkar, in the late 18th century. In the area you can visit the Jantar Mantar gifted by Maharaja Jai Singh II of Jaipur to the city of Varanasi.

The main attraction of the ghat is the gathering of believers and pilgrims to perform purification baths and various rituals. The ghat is a continuous swarm of activity until sunset when a great aarti to Goddess Ganga, the goddess who dwells in the Ganges, takes place.

Varanasi Crematoria

Varanasi is a city linked to the ritual of death in the eyes of a foreigner. The myth of Varanasi is that of a city where Hindus go to die and be burned in front of the Ganges. The truth is that it is not the only sacred city where open-air cremations are carried out (for example, there are them in Puri in Orissa or in the Pashupatinath temple in Kathmandu).

The Varanasi crematoriums are located on two ghats facing the river and that makes them special. There is no clear distinction between the spaces for the funeral ritual and the other ghats that jut out into the Ganges. Many travelers come across the funeral pyres while strolling along the shore.

The importance of cremations in Varanasi is determined by the widespread belief that when cremated on the banks of the Ganges, the atman (individual soul) of the deceased is extinguished and it merges with the brahman (universal soul), therefore, it will not reincarnate anymore. Even if you really like life and want to come back again, in Hinduism it is believed that the reincarnation cycle is a process towards final liberation which is the fusion with the cosmic unity.

The experience of cremation is an everyday occurrence in Varanasi. Anyone can attend these rites that take place simultaneously. Around cremations there are even chai vendors and non-family people sitting around looking.

If you want to know more about cremations in Hinduism you can follow the link.

Manikarnika Ghat

The ghat main cremation ghat in Varanasi is dedicated entirely to the god Shiva. It is reached from Jalasen Ghat after the Nepali temple. The access from the old city is through tortuous alleys where it is not uncommon to find funeral processions.

At the back of the ghat is a hostel for people who have come to die in Varanasi. Some patients are very poor, so Manikarnika collects donations to pay for the wood for the pyres.

The ghat and alleyways are littered with piles of wood. Each type of wood has a price and contributes to the improvement of the karma of the deceased. A sandalwood funeral pyre is more expensive, but gives better karma than an electric cremation.

In the Manikarnika ghat it is common to see guides explaining the funeral ritual to groups of travelers. Always maintain an attitude of respect with the families that are performing the rituals and avoid photography. Although in Hinduism, those attending a funeral do not express grief as in the West, that does not mean that it is not a serious and solemn moment.

THE LEGEND OF MANIKARNIKA
Legend has it that the goddess Parvati was fed up with the fact that the god of destruction out and about with his followers, so he hatched a plan. She buried an earring and told Shiva that she had lost it on the banks of the Ganges. Shiva searched tirelessly for his wife’s earring. Shiva is said to still ask souls who are cremated at Manikarnika if they have seen the earring.

Harishchandra Ghat

Harishchandra Ghat is the second cremation ghat of Varanasi. It is just as auspicious to be cremated here, although it is not as popular as Manikarnika.

Unlike Manikarnika Ghat, it is a more open ghat with access from a street and more continuous passage of people. It is easily recognizable from afar by the chimneys at the back. It has an electric crematorium in the back.

THE LEGEND OF KING HARISHCHANDRA
Rajah Harishchandra is a mythical king of Varanasi strong>, epitome of all virtues. Legend has it that the sage rishi Vishwamitra asked her to give him an offering for a ritual. The king gave him all his wealth, but the rishi was not satisfied. Harishchandra sold his wife, his son and himself as slaves. Manikarnika’s owner bought him and put him to work in Harishchandra’s crematorium. The family misfortune reached such a point that the son died and his wife carried him in her arms to the crematorium where her husband worked as a slave to be cremated without even a shroud. The king prepared the funeral pyre. The gods, seeing his integrity and fidelity, returned his wealth, his throne and his son.

Varanasi Hindu Temples

Visiting the temples of Varanasi is not as attractive as the ghats. Most of the historical buildings were destroyed by successive invasions and looting by Muslim troops since the 12th century with the Qutbdin Aibak campaign. However, it is impossible to leave Varanasi without having stepped foot in one of the most famous temples.

Varanasi Golden Temple

The Kashi Vishwanath Temple is known as the Golden Temple because of its gold covering. It is located in an alley around Manikarnika Ghat. Sometimes it is difficult to find your way around these alleys, but be aware that you have reached Kashi Vishwanath by the queue and the military access control.

The current temple dates from the late 18th century after several destructions and reconstructions. It was built by the maharani Ahilyabai Holkar of Indore , and the maharaja of Ranjit Singh of Amritsar donated the ton of gold that covers the dome. The temple is dedicated to the representation of Shiva as lord of the Universe and contains one of the 12 most sacred lingams in India.

Some nearby stores offer the chance to see the golden dome from their rooftops or balconies. The truth is that you can hardly see anything inside the temple.

The entry of non-Hindus to the Kashi Vishwanath temple is prohibited. Unlike other India travel blogs, I’m not going to recommend you sneak in. Respect for India’s religions includes accepting the proper rules for managing temples and rituals. Curiosity and/or morbidity cannot be an excuse for breaking this basic rule of a responsible and conscious trip.

Durga Kund Mandir

The most important temple in the city dedicated to the goddess Durga is popularly known as the monkey temple. There are many monkeys that hang around the temple and that always means that you have to be careful with your belongings.

The Durga Temple was built in the 18th century in the nagara style. It is painted a very characteristic intense red and the shikara is typical of North India. Outside is a large sacred pool or kund that was once connected to the Ganges. Durga is the wife of Shiva in his warrior manifestation. She is represented mounted on a lion and with multiple arms carrying weapons of war.

Legend has it that the image was already here before the temple was built.

Tulsi Manar Mandir

This marble temple is built on the spot where the Hindu sage and reformer Goswami Tulsidas wrote one of his works in the 16th century. This is the translation of the Ramayana into a modern language, Avadhi. Until then, India’s greatest epic could only be read in Sanskrit.

The temple does not have much heritage interest and the interior is often disappointing. Construction was completed in the 1960s and depicts scenes from the Ramayana on the walls. You will find articulated scenes from Hindu mythology, just the way practitioners of popular religion like.

Annapurna Mandir

Annapurna is a form of the goddess Parvati, wife of Shiva. She is considered the goddess of food. The myth tells that Parvati made food disappear from the world to show Shiva the importance of food.

The Annapurna Temple was built in the 18th century in the Nagara style. It is located near Kashi Vishwanath and Manikarnika Ghat, inside the historical quarter.

The golden idol of Annapurna is only displayed on the day of Govardhan Puja (November 15, 2020). Believers offer vegetarian food to the goddess. On other days at darshan time an Annapurna figure made of brass is displayed.

Varanasi University Campus

The Banaras Hindu University is a one of the most prestigious institutions of higher education in the country. It was founded in 1916 as Central Hindu College and today it is a public university of the federal government. It is the largest university campus in Asia with more than 30,000 resident students. BHU is one of the top ten universities in India.

The institution was inaugurated on the day of Vasant Panchami, the puja in honor of the goddess Sarasvati who appears on the emblem of the university. The festival of the goddess of knowledge and arts is specially celebrated at the Banaras Hindu University.

The campus is carefully designed in the shape of a fan. In the center stands the Shri Vishwanath temple, one of the tallest in India. It is a marble temple inspired by the golden temple of Kashi Vishwanath. Although it is a modern temple, many travelers decide to visit it to walk around the extensive grounds of the university, full of greenery.

Aside from the university, Varanasi is also a center of Vedic studies, where you can learn Sanskrit, Hindi, arts traditional… Depending on where you move you will find an intellectual and bohemian atmosphere.

Things to do in Varanasi

The main activities that you have to do if you visit Varanasi pass around the river. You have to attend an aarti facing the Ganges, either at the main ghat or at one of the smaller ceremonies.

The boat ride on the Ganges at dawn also seems essential to me. But in addition, Varanasi has an extensive offer of classical music concerts, opportunities to learn about traditional Indian arts and also many charming shops between alleyways.

Aarti from Dashashwamedh Ghat

The aarti is a ceremony held at sunset in all temples and ghats in North India. It is not exclusive to Varanasi or Dashashwamedh Ghat, but the temple was the pioneer in turning this ceremony into a choreographed spectacle.

Priests dressed in impeccable dhotis perform the ritual towards the four cardinal points, allowing everyone to have a view of the ritual gestures being performed. The ritual is quite extensive and culminates in the lighting of large ritual lamps called diya to the sound of religious music or bhajan. In Varanasi the aarti culminates with the hymn Om Jai Gange Mata.

Best place to watch the aarti

You must arrive early to get a good spot. Seats are free and fill up slowly, until just before the ceremony. You should know that even if you have a great view, it may be that as the peak moment approaches, other people will arrive and ask you or force you to squeeze. Indian stuff!

Depending on your interest, you should view them from the sides or from the back. From the sides you get a good in-depth perspective of the priests, and usually a good close-up of one of them. From the back of the ghat, you can better appreciate the whole, but you tend to be further away and have the headlights facing you.

Some travel agencies propose reserved spaces on the rooftops, so that you avoid insects and have a global perspective of the ritual. When a friendly priest gives you a ride, expect a tip for taking you there. He won’t leave until he gets it.

You can also witness the aarti from a boat. Many boatmen will offer to take you and there are large boats for tour groups. Perhaps you won’t have such a close view of the priests performing the ritual, but you save yourself insects attracted to the light bulbs. It can be a good alternative to witness it a second time.

Other Varanasi aarti

Another option is to visit one of the smaller ghats to partake of a less crowded aarti . Some time ago at Jalasen Ghat they did it only by candlelight and mustard oil lamps. It was an incredible intimate experience. However, many smaller ghats have also adopted the system of podiums and LED lights. At Assi Ghat there are still some priests performing aarti alone in front of the Ganges.

Boat ride on the Ganges at sunrise

The boat ride through Varanasi is the closest thing to a cinematic traveling in an impossible city. The vision of the daily life of the city from the water looks like a movie.

The tour starts around 5 in the morning, still in the dark. The sun rises over the uninhabited shore of Varanasi and illuminates the ghats directly. With the first rays of light, believers file down the stairs for their purification baths and morning rituals. Some ghats bring together families and pilgrims, others are the meeting point for schools of priests who practice yoga in a group. Meanwhile, the crematoriums are preparing for a day of activity, collecting the remains of the pyres that have burned overnight.

You can book a boat ride on the Ganges with an agency that will pick you up at your hotel and take you to your boatman . Alternatively, you can arrange with a boatman the evening before where he can meet you. Remember that if you have to arrive by rickshaw or autorickshaw, the most accessible places are around Assi Ghat and Shivala Ghat.

Boat tours are prohibited by the Varanasi City Hall for some days during the monsoon when the Ganges current is too strong.

Festivals in Varanasi

The Hindu calendar is generous in festivals and Varanasi celebrates them all. When northern India celebrates, the ghats fill with believers who take the opportunity to make a pilgrimage.

The most popular Hindu festivals, Holi, Dussehra, Diwali, are celebrated in spring and autumn. They coincide with the months with the best weather and the most suitable ones for traveling to Varanasi.

Certain festivals attract large numbers of people from neighboring rural areas to Varanasi. If you coincide with a festival like Holi or Diwali, enjoy it in places where there are families and children. In general, India is not a dangerous place, but crowds should be avoided. As a precaution, avoid crowds, especially when there are groups of young people who have consumed bhang. Bhang is crushed marijuana drunk mixed with lassi or pakoras. bhang is legal in Varanasi and it is common to consume it in festivals related to the god Shiva. During Mahashivaratri 2009 I was walking with a group of friends and we preferred to leave the ghats when a group of youngsters started chasing us. It might not be anything, but you can put yourself in a sticky situation.

During festivals there are huge crowds in Varanasi and it is not always a safe place for a foreigner, especially a girl alone. It is a moment that requires taking some precautions.

Tours from Varanasi

The magnetism of Varanasi is undeniable. However, if you have a few days to dedicate to the city on your North India trip, you have to visit Sarnath. The place where Buddha gave his first sermon is a pilgrimage site for Buddhists from all over the world. You can also cross the river to see the residence of the former kings of Varanasi.

Sarnath and Deer Park

⏰ From 8 to 18 | ? 100 rupees

The Sarnath Deer Park ( Rishipattana ) is the place where Buddha gave his first sermon after reaching enlightenment. Both Varanasi and Sarnath are sacred places for Buddhist believers. In Sarnath there are temples from all countries that practice Buddhism.

A visit to Sarnath includes a walk through the Deer Park dominated by the 6th-century Dhamek Stupa. This memorial monument marks the holy place where the Buddha gave his sermon to the five disciples who followed him after enlightenment. The original structure was 91 meters, more than double the current remains.

In the park you can see the ruins of a 7th century monastery that had 1500 monks. The spaces are clearly delimited, but only a few walls remain.

In the park there is also a pillar of Ashoka , the emperor who converted his empire to Buddhism in the 3rd century BC.

To end the visit, you can enter the small Archaeological Museum of Sarnath that preserves some finds from the 3rd century BC to the 12th century. You will be able to admire precious pieces of Buddhas and the intact capital of the Ashoka pillar with four lions that appear on all Indian rupee notes.

Ramnagarh Fort

⏰ From 10 to 17 | 15 rupees

Ramnagarh is an 18th century fort built in the Mughal style by Kashi Naresh, the Rajah of Varanasi. Still today the official residence of the royal family of Varanasi that inhabits part of the palace, while the rest can be visited. The space open to the public is not in a great state of preservation, but visiting Ramnagarh allows you to have a totally original view of Varanasi from the east bank.

The Ramlila celebration at Ramnagarh Fort is one of the most famous in India. For a month, between September and October, preparations for the Dussehra festival bring vibrant crowds to the fort’s courtyard. During Dussehra, the life of the god Rama is commemorated as told in the Ramayana. On the last day of the celebrations, the effigies of the devil Ravana and his brothers are burned in the same way that the fallas are burned in Valencia.

You can reach it by road via the Ramnagarh Bridge just 2 kms from the Banaras Hindu University. You can also hire a boatman to take you from Tulsi Ghat, the journey on the river takes one hour.

When is Dussehra 2023
| October 24 |

When to visit Varanasi

Every time of the year in Varanasi has its charm. However, there are periods when the city shines and others when visiting Varanasi involves facing some difficulties.

• The summer in Varanasi begins in April and lasts until June or July, with the first monsoon rains. Due to the intense and dry heat, it is difficult to walk the ghats during the day. In addition, the level of the river drops and reveals wide sandbanks that are often filled with ritual waste. Nor is it necessarily a low season, as many Indians have vacations and take the opportunity to make pilgrimages.
• The monsoon months in Varanasi bring heavy but irregular rainfall. The river is very high, especially towards the middle and end of August. It can be difficult, if not impossible to walk the ghats. The alleys are very narrow, congested and dirty during the monsoon; Humidity doesn’t help too much either. During some days of August it is possible to prohibit the movement of boats on the Ganges.
• Winter in Varanasi is a time of cold and fog. It coincides with the months of December and January. The whole is a bit spooky and many hotels are not prepared to insulate you from the cold.

Best time to go to Varanasi

If we focus on the weather, the months of February and March coincide with spring in Varanasi and are ideal if you want to celebrate Holi on the banks of the Ganges. In February, the puja is held in honor of Sarasvati, very popular in the surroundings of Banaras Hindu University. The month of March can already be quite hot, but still bearable. After Holi the number of tourists drops a lot.

October and November are the best months to visit Varanasi. The rains have ended and the vegetation is splendid. The autumn in Varanasi enjoys the Ganges with a good flow, the city clean and prepared for the great festivals of Dussehra and Diwali. October is considered the beginning of the high season and therefore the pilgrimage of international travelers is continuous.

EPISODES OF AIR POLLUTION IN VARANASI
Unfortunately in recent years the increase in pollution Atmospheric sometimes causes the sky to stop being blue and the air quality worsens. The situation in Uttar Pradesh is not as bad as in Delhi, but the conjunction of climatic factors with the increase in combustion engines and the burning of rice fields can cause episodes of severe air pollution. Fortunately, they are seasonal episodes and India has become aware that measures must be implemented.

How to get to Varanasi

Almost no one goes to Varanasi by their own vehicle or bus. The best means of transportation to reach Varanasi are the train and the plane.

Varanasi by train

Many trains cover the journey from Delhi to Varanasi which normally continues to Kolkata. Most stop in Agra, at Agra Cant or Agra Fort stations. Some circumambulate the city of the Taj Mahal and stop at Tundla. In Varanasi the central station is Varanasi Junction, although some trains stop at Mughal Sarai 18 kilometers from the city center. There are also many trains from Mumbai to Varanasi.

You can read more about how to book your tickets, train categories and other useful information in the article on traveling in India by train.

How to book easily train tickets in India

Flight to Varanasi

Varanasi has increasing connections with major Indian cities. There are direct flights to Delhi, Mumbai and Bengaluru, so you can perfectly combine a trip through South India with a visit to the holy city. Air India, Spicejet, Indigo, among others operate the connections, which sometimes include a stop at an intermediate airport.

Check the prices of a flight to Varanasi. Low cost airlines like Indigo and Spicejet start at less than €50 each way.

TIP
If you want to visit Varanasi, but have doubts about the night on the train, I recommend you choose a return flight. It will allow you to arrive rested and make the most of this magical city.

How to get from the airport to the center of Varanasi

Varanasi airport is quite far from the city. You must count at least one hour of transfer and if it is in rush hour, a little more. Transportation is normally done in prepaid taxis. You can also hire a transfer from Varanasi airport to your hotel. Keep in mind that in Varanasi these types of services may be of a lower quality than in other parts of India.

Varanasi by car or bus

Not many travelers choose to travel to Varanasi by car with a driver. You could do it with a stop at Lucknow, a city with an incredible heritage, and in Allahabad, another holy city for Hindus. However, most travel agencies and travelers will recommend that you go by train or plane.

I tell you the same if you want to continue your trip to the holy places of Buddhism in Bihar. Take the train to Patna or Gaya and rent a car with a local driver.

If you want to continue east by road anyway, don’t miss Shergarh Fort and the Tomb of Sher Shah Suri in Sasaram.

The bus is a good option when you can’t find seats on the train from Kajuraho to Varanasi. Out of season there are no flights and in season it can be difficult or very expensive to get a seat. So many travelers coming from Madhya Pradesh make the journey by bus. Calculate about 12 hours.

Getting around Varanasi

The main means of transportation around Varanasi is the autorickshaw. Tuk-tuks can take you from the city center to the ghats. However, they have some limitations to access the old town area. You can be dropped off at Assi Ghat, almost opposite the Ganges, or at Godaulia to walk to Dashaswamedh Ghat. You can also use the tuk-tuk to visit the Banaras Hindu University. Be careful with some autowallah who will want to take you to a commission store.

In many areas of the city you will see the rickshaws pulled by bicycles. They can access more places than the tuk-tuk, but many times they are willing to make journeys to distant places that on the bicycle can become an eternity. Look at a map before hopping from Manikarnika to Assi Ghat in a rickshaw.

An excellent way to get to know Varanasi is to explore the banks of the Ganges on foot. The city’s 88 ghats are interconnected, except in the monsoon months. Walking around Varanasi is a real pleasure, especially when you get away from the most famous ghats and the cremation ghats . The walk from Harischandra Ghat south to Assi Ghat will show you the most relaxed part of the city and you will appreciate the daily life of locals and pilgrims.

You can hire a taxi from Varanasi to Sarnath to spend half a day getting to know this town dedicated to Buddhism. You could also go by autorickshaw, but it is not very comfortable.

Where to stay in Varanasi

These are the hotels I use when I go alone to Varanasi.

• Panchkote Raj Ganges. A guest house with an outstanding terrace overlooking the Ganges between Assi Ghat and Dasaswamedh Ghat.
• Hostel LaVie. My favorite hostel in Varanasi. It is in the neighborhood of the cloth weavers, which is a visit that I recommend.
• Palace on Ganges. It is the classic hotel to stay with a good level of comfort in Assi Ghat, one of the most interesting and authentic ghats in Varanasi.