The last capital of the maharajas of Kerala is dedicated to the serpent, on which the god Vishnu reclines. The imposing Padmanabhaswamy temple dominates the old quarter, and many travelers are discouraged to discover that access is restricted. However, there is still much to discover. I tell you what to do in Trivandrum and how to get the most out of the capital of Kerala.
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The capital of Kerala
Trivandrum ( Tiruvanantapuram | തിരുവനന്തപുരം ) is the capital of the state of Kerala. With one million inhabitants, the city is an important communication hub of southern India and seems to live in a permanent traffic jam. The beach area of Kovalam is about half an hour from the historic district of Trivandrum.
Trivandrum was the last seat of the Travancore dynasty that ruled one of the key areas in the world spice trade.
What to do in Trivandrum: 5 must-see heritage sites
The capital of Kerala is a city little explored by travelers. One of the reasons is that the main temple of the city and one of the richest in India, prohibits access to non-Hindus. This practice is common in most Hindu temples in Kerala.
1. Padmanabhaswamy Temple
Entrance forbidden to non-Hindus
The Anantha Padmanabhaswamy temple is dedicated to a representation of Vishnu. The god who operates the world appears reclining under the serpent Anantha and holds in one hand a lotus flower (padmanabha). The creator god Brahma floats on a lotus coming out of Vishnu’s navel.
The exterior is impressive. The seven-story ocher-colored vimana stands out at the end of the avenue leading to the royal palace. The comings and goings of the locals to the temple are hypnotic. Believers must enter the temple bare-chested, and women wear a white ceremonial sari with a golden border. You can reach the foot of the access stairs and visit the large, recently recovered ritual pond.
The most visible parts of the temple were built in the 16th century. It mixes the Dravidian style of Tamil Nadu temples with a more austere version typical of Kerala (Chera style). It was the shrine of the chief deity of the kingdom of Travancore and to this day, the descendants of the maharajas preside over the foundation that manages the temple and the ritual processions. The mythical riches of the temple are due to the donations that the kings and nobles of the state regularly made to the god Vishnu. In 2011, treasure worth billions of euros was found in sealed chambers. If you are not Hindu, the solid gold image of Vishnu reclining under the serpent Anantha can only be seen in the reproductions sold at the flea market.
2. Travancore palaces
20 rupees. Tuesday to Sunday. From 10 a.m. to 4.45 p.m. You must take off your shoes
The palace of Thirumal Varma was the residence of the kings of Travancore for a very short period of time in the 18th century. It is a beautiful teak wood palace that is visited accompanied by a local guide. Even if you know other palaces in India, you will be surprised by the way of life in the Kerala of the maharajas. Unlike the Padmanabhapuram palace, here you can also enjoy objects and art of the court.
There are other palaces open to the public. Kanakakunnu Palace is visited along with the Napier Museum. It hosts the classical music festival in January. Kowdiar Palace cannot be visited, as it is still the residence of the Travancore royal family.
DID YOU KNOW…
The kings of Travancore did not pass on their kingdom to their male child, but to their sister’s son. The king’s nephew ensured that the blood tie of the lineage was respected. Kerala matriarchy or marumakkathayam is especially common in the Nair warrior caste.
3. Colonial mansions of Trivandrum
As I said, not many travelers venture into the interior of the city. I recommend that you walk along Mahatma Gandhi Road from the historic area to the Victoria Jubilee Town Hall. If you wander around a bit, you’ll notice the beautiful colonial architecture that blends European influence and local style in many buildings.
Notable buildings include the old Trivandrum Town Hall, the state government (Secretariat), the library and the public university, but also many private houses.
4. The Napier Museum Collection
20 rupees. Tuesday to Sunday. From 10 a.m. to 4.45 p.m. You must take off your shoes
You cannot miss the Napier Museum which has the best collection of Kerali art in Trivandrum. It is six kilometers from the historic district, adjacent to Kanakakunnu Palace.
Lord John Napier was the governor of the Madras Presidency at the time of the construction of the museum, which combines the Indo-Muslim style with elements of Gothic and local Kerala architecture. The architect of the building was the British architect Robert Fellows Chisholm.
Within the estate is the Government Arts and Crafts Museum which exhibits everything from remains of the Harappa culture (third millennia BC) to a temple chariot and local bronze and ivory statuettes. Shri Chitra Art Gallery exhibits the pictorial work of Ravi Varma and Raja Varma, two local painters of the late 19th century. Within the complex there is also a Natural History Museum.
5. Attending a martial arts school in Kerala
The CVN Kalari Sangham has worked since 1956 to revive the art of vadakkam kalari among the youth of Trivandrum. Learning begins at the age of nine and is combined with formal education. They offer year-round courses for Indians and intensive courses of three to six months for foreigners. They also conduct kalari demonstrations if requested in advance. You can contact +914712474182 to learn more about the schedule and the cost of accessing a session.
What is kalaripayattu?
Kalaripayattu ( കളരിപ്പയറ്റ് ) is the oldest martial art still practiced. It is believed to be over a thousand years old and was founded at a time of constant warfare between the principalities that today form Kerala. In the 11th century there were suicide squads of kalari fighters. There are two styles of fighting: northern Kerala (vadakkan kalari) and southern Kerala (thekkan kalari).
The kalari exercises and fights have a spiritual aspect. At the beginning, the weapons are blessed and a prayer to the god of fighting is performed. At the end of the training, this show of respect to the weapons and the god Khaloorika is performed again.
The weapons of the kalaripayattu are made of wood or metal. They include some strange gadgets such as a flexible metal sword (urumi) or a whip with three strips of serrated iron. However, the victory of the fighters was accomplished by pressing nerve endings (a technique similar to that used in India to control elephants). The fighters are bare-chested and one of the forms of fighting involves the mundu, the piece of cloth tied around the waist.
Kalaripayattu is part of the corpus of Indian martial arts.
Getaways from Trivandrum
Trivandrum is a bustling city and it is not surprising that locals want to escape to idyllic places. However, if you have time in the city, you may want to consider these themed tours:
- Trivandrum temple tour to learn about the Hindu religion in Kerala.
- Gastronomic tour through the street food of Trivandrum.
To continue your trip, the south of Kerala is full of paradisiacal corners and mountains with breathtaking landscapes. The most accessible coastline is Kovalam and I have dedicated an extensive post where you will find all the necessary information and some ideas of half or full-day excursions that you can do from Kovalam or from Trivandrum.
Alternatively, if you are heading north you may want to plan a stop at Varkala beach.
Varkala Beach
The imposing cliff of Varkala has prevented one of the most famous beaches in Kerala from massive tourist development. The sand is accessed through two paths that descend among the rocks to a beautiful bay with dreamy sunsets.
Varkala attracts many independent travelers who opt for a few days of tranquility in an idyllic setting. Activities such as yoga or Ayurveda have been developed for young people and foreigners. Therefore, it is not uncommon to see groups or individuals doing yoga early in the morning with the sound of the waves as a soundtrack. It is a magical place for a small retreat in nature.
The bars, restaurants and small hotels are on top of the cliff, so the sand is totally free of activities. Most are simple huts, but with good coffee, international food and cabana-style accommodation or rooms in guesthouses. There are also some larger hotels that have been opening lately, but they tend to be further away from the cliff.
Best time to visit Trivandrum
Trivandrum is said to be the first city in India to see the arrival of the monsoons. The torrential rains start in May and depending on the years can stretch into July or even August. Maybe you read some news about the 2018 catastrophe with the worst rains in a century. Kerala receives rain almost all year round, so there can be showers the following months, but not with the same intensity. It is usually considered peak season from October to February or March. Check the weather in Trivandrum here.
TIP
To visit natural areas of Kerala you should know that the jungle is very dense, so you should plan your visits in the dry season. The animals come closer to the water sources, and it is easier to see them. Otherwise, they quickly hide in the vegetation at the slightest sound.
Religious festivals in Trivandrum
As Kerala celebrates everything, the calendar is full of dates not to forget. But beware, Kerala is the state that least celebrates Diwali, the Hindu festival par excellence.
- Painkuni. April 12-21, 2024. Ten days of processions to bring about a good monsoon.
- Onam. September 5-17, 2024. The most important festival of the year in Kerala.
- Alpashi Ustavam. October 2024 (date to be confirmed). A procession with royal origins.
How to get to Trivandrum
Trivandrum is the most important communication hub in Kerala and the southern tip of India. If you want to visit southern Kerala or Tamil Nadu, most flights, trains or buses pass through or terminate in the city.
Flights to Trivandrum
Trivandrum airport is located between the old city and the sea. In fact, the Alpasi Ustavam processions pass nearby. It is connected to several Middle Eastern capitals, although international flights from Qatar Airways, Etihad and Emirates to Europe are usually cheaper from Cochin.
All Indian carriers, both state-owned and low-cost, serve Trivandrum. Flights to northern India may stop in Mumbai, Bangalore or a city in central India. Search for flights from Trivandrum to any Indian city to Trivandrum and vice versa.
Book a flight, bus or train ticket
Trivandrum by train
Trivandrum railway station is relatively close to Mahatma Gandhi Road and the monumental area. Trains to travel along the coast of Kerala and Karnataka to Goa and Mumbai are comfortable and frequent.
From Cochin, the journey takes about 4 hours. Unfortunately, there are not many trains going to Tamil Nadu or the interior of Kerala state. Check all the information on the Indian Rail website.
Trivandrum by car and bus
The roads in Kerala are very narrow and most of the population lives in the flat part of the state. Therefore, it is common for them to be permanently congested and the speed of travel is usually slower than in other neighboring states such as Tamil Nadu or Karnataka.
- From Kanyakumari. You have a good three hours of travel through beautiful scenery. You will see bridges crossing the rivers that flow down from the Western Ghats mountain range and the coconut forests that flank them. On this route, it is interesting to stop to visit the Padmanabhantapuram palace in Thuckalay and the Suchindram temple.
- From Kovalam. It is a half-hour ride. You can take a bus from the beach stop to Trivandrum bus station or get off on the way.
- From Varkala. You can go by bus with some change. The most practical way is to hire a cab. The 50-kilometer trip takes about an hour and a half when there is no traffic. The road that runs parallel to the coast is much more scenic, although the trip takes about half an hour.
- From backwaters, and Allephey. It is 150 kilometers and four hours if there is no traffic. If you have to go by public transport, you should take the train. You will avoid the continuous stops for passengers to get on and off and being in traffic jams with buses without windows.
Where to stay in Trivandrum
Most travelers stay in hotels in Kovalam and come to Trivandrum for a half or full day. However, being a big city, there are a lot of accommodation options.
As there are fewer tourists, prices are tailored to Indian demand, which can be an attractive element in finding cheaper hotels in Trivandrum. Here are some accommodations in Trivandrum that I recommend:
- Amritham Holidays Homestay Trivandrum. It is a super nice guesthouse, with a garden and a small pond, excellent for relaxing. The owner gives you a lot of privacy, and it is a place where you will be able to eat homemade food, meet a local family and enjoy this haven of peace.
- Hilton Garden Trivandrum. As I said before, this Hilton hotel with all the amenities, good restaurant, swimming pool, etc. costs less than 100 euros per night in season. Take advantage of the offers if you go in low season. It may seem a bit far away from the sights, but Trivandrum is a very extended city.
- Hyatt Regency Trivandrum. This is the most recommended luxury hotel in Trivnadrum city. It is like the Hilton, excellent services and amenities, but a little far from the historic area. If you have a car with driver, it will not be a problem. It costs a little more expensive than the Hilton, but much cheaper than a hotel of this category in another Indian capital.
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