Pilar is the capital of the department of Ñeembucú in southern Paraguay. This region is marked by the presence of the Paraná and Paraguay rivers and much of its extension is floodplain. Here I present several things to do in Pilar and its surrounds.
Until a few years ago, Pilar was more connected by river than by road. However, that is changing for the better, although places like Humaitá are still accessible only by dirt roads. It is an interesting extension for a weekend from Asunción or to add to a two-week trip to Paraguay.
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How to get to Pilar
The main road to Pilar has always been through Misiones. From San Ignacio Guasú you take Route 4, which is well paved. It takes an hour and a half to reach the capital of Ñeembucú. If you are coming from Encarnación it is the best route, but from Asunción it is somewhat longer than the option I will tell you about below. Choose this route if you are coming with a small car or if it has been raining recently.
The road between Asunción and Pilar leaves from Ypané and continues parallel to the Paraguay River through Villeta, Villa Oliva, Alberdi and Pilar. The trip takes about 4 hours and saves time and fuel. At the time of writing, the road between Alberdi and Pilar was under construction. Part of the route between the Tebicuary River and the town of Alberdi was dirt, going in and out of estancias, and the final part was under construction. You should always check the road conditions if it has rained in the previous days.
Finally, you can cross from Pilar to Argentina by raft. Make sure you have your papers in order, especially in times of Covid.
What to do in Pilar
The city of Pilar has about 50,000 inhabitants and feels like a big town, without the hustle and bustle of the cities. People live in low houses and the center has preserved a good part of the 19th century buildings built after the War of the Triple Alliance.
According to what we were told, after the war many Italians populated the city and hence the taste of its historic buildings. Apart from the typical mansions with a Jeré corridor, I loved the imposing building of the Banco Nacional de Fomento.
The starting point of any walking route is the Plaza de los Héroes. The streets are laid out in a grid and have little traffic: perfect for strolling. For a first time, it is not to be missed:
- The Cabildo Museum of Pilar (front cover). In a colonial house facing the Plaza de los Héroes, the Cabildo has been restored and contains a well-curated exhibit on life in Pilar and the war conflict that ravaged this region of Paraguay between 1864 and 1870. Admission is free, but opening hours must be consulted.
- Church of Nuestra Señora del Pilar. It is a temple rebuilt by the Redemptorist order. The city and the church are dedicated to the Virgen del Pilar because its founder had Aragonese roots, where devotion to this virgin is widespread.
The Costanera de Pilar was not yet finished when I visited the city, but it has beautiful views of the river and the best sunsets in Paraguay. Very close to the waterfront are some of the liveliest areas of the city.
Excursions around Ñeembucú
Of the three days we were in Pilar, we spent a whole day hiking in the south of the department of Ñeembucú.
Many people come to this part of Paraguay to fish. If you are interested in this activity, you should go to Cerrito or Paso de Patria which are the best fishing destinations in the Parana River.
In our experience, we toured the main historical sites in the region. Almost all sites have links to the War of the Triple Alliance.
Namely, before leaving. The route from Isla Umbú to Humaitá and from Humaitá to Paso de Patria has some stretches of dirt road. Check the condition of the roads if it has rained recently, especially if your car is not off-road.
Isla Umbú
A hushed village with a church of popular architecture that perfectly shows the wooden structure and bamboo roof. The church is dedicated to San Atanasio.
The Museo Histórico Cuartel del Mariscal López has bizarre opening hours and is only open from Monday to Friday.
Ruins of Humaitá
This was one of my long-awaited destinations in southern Paraguay. Both the architecture of the village houses and the ruins of the church of San Carlos Borromeo did not disappoint me.
The team of the Historical Museum (10,000 guaranís) gave us an excellent guided tour. I thank the guide Karen for her extensive knowledge of the battle of Humaitá, who also had a lot of passion. At the site, one understands perfectly the military strategy, the importance of this square and the dramatic end of the inhabitants of Humaitá.
Posada La Terraza is a lodging with an unbeatable position. In front of the ruined church and the river, it has rooms on a terrace with privileged views. It is also the place to have lunch in Humaitá.
Paso de Patria
In the extreme southwest of Paraguay, it is the place where the Paraguay and Paraná rivers converge. Sometimes you can reach the confluence by car, but if the river has risen, you can only get there by boat. You have to ask at the port if they can offer the service. Often there are no boats available because they are mainly dedicated to taking fishing tourists.
The rental of a fishing boat costs from 850,000 guaraníes per day with baqueano and fuel included. The baqueano knows the nooks and crannies of the river and where to find good fish.
We ate at Comedor Avenida del Puerto. A simple place with a limited offer, but with a very attentive and chatty owner.
There are many inns to stay in the village. I recommend Posada Turística Itápirú which is on an island. Perfect for fishing. The owners come to pick you up and bring you from the port. You have to bring supplies to cook on site. Double room for 200,000 guaranís.
Ita Corá
We arrived to get a closer look at the Paraná River. The port is in front of an island and has a pier with benches to spend some time watching life go by. We took the opportunity to do some fishing from the shore. No luck!
In the time we were there, we could see an otter, as well as the villagers coming and going with their boats for firewood, fishing or spending Sunday afternoons with the family.
Best restaurants in Pilar
In the three days we were in Pilar I did not have an opportunity to try all the places in town. However, I did notice that life in Pilar goes by very quietly and that customers do not expect to be served fast. Sometimes you have to wait a long time for the food to arrive, and I have seen some reviews on Tripadvisor because of the delay. The truth is that when you are on vacation, it is worth taking life a little slower. Here are the ones I liked:
- El Italiano Pizzería. Pilar was repopulated after the war with many Italians, and pizza is everywhere. However, in this place they make them good from the dough to the toppings. FYI, I had the chicken and catupiry half with olives and the other half with anchovies, which is my favorite pizza.
- Mister Kombi. It may sound like a food truck, but it is one of the most popular restaurants in Pilar. It has two branches. The one on the waterfront has a nice terrace. The menu is very varied and includes good salads and fish for a change. Giant Milanese and grillé! It also has a branch of Amandau ice cream.
- Bulevar Beer Site. A very lively brewery at night on weekends. There is a wide range of Paraguayan craft beers and to eat: snacks, pizzas and hamburgers.
Where to stay in Pilar
The best hotel in Pilar is Hotel Boutique Las Hortensias. It is a charming place, very well cared for. It has a beautiful pool in the center to relax in the hot months. There are many of those details that make a stay in a hotel exceptional. The breakfast is exceptional.
For tighter budgets, there are some Posadas Turísticas del Paraguay that are simple guesthouses, but at an excellent price.
We stayed at Mburukuja Poty. The double room with breakfast cost us 175,000 guaranís. The place was simple, but the family who ran it was very friendly and provided us with information about life in Pilar and about the state of the roads and highways.
Facing the Paraguay River is the posada Casa del Río, which is rented as a whole for 250,000 guaranís. It is perfect for a trip with friends, family or a group of fishermen.
Do you want to plan a trip on your own?
These are some tools to help you prepare for your travel from home. Leave your questions in the comment section below and I will get back to you. It’s just about time to start planning your next holidays!
PROFESSIONAL ETHICS. This post contains some affiliate links.
These links allow you to follow my recommendations and book them, and provide a little commission. Thus, you help keep this travel blog ad-free at no extra cost to you.
