Things to do in Ernakulam and how to plan your visit

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Kochi is a must-see destination on a trip to Kerala. The city consists of an archipelago and a mainland part. Most travelers only know the area of Fort Kochi and Mattancherry, but I encourage you to discover these things to do in Ernakulam and places of interest in mainland Kochi.

Ernakulam and Kochi

Kochi ( കൊച്ചി ) is the second-largest city in the state of Kerala. It has a population of 1.5 million people spread across its metropolitan area covering an archipelago of islands and the waterfront we know as Ernakulam. Cochin has historically been a thriving commercial capital and today is the main port on the Malabar coast. It is also considered one of the intellectual centers of India and every two years hosts the Cochin Biennale, the most important contemporary art meeting in India.

The most visited parts of the city are Mattancherry and Fort Cochin. On the one hand, Mattancherry was the great spice market and has the Jewish quarter, the maharaja’s palace and the port warehouses. On the other, the Fort Kochi area, which is almost pedestrianized, is the historic site of successive European fortresses that controlled trade with the city.

Few venture to Ernakulam which includes the mainland districts and has its own history. Besides showing the more modern face of an emblematic city if we mention sustainable development in India, there is much to see in Ernakulam, since it also gave shelter to a considerable Jewish community and its waterfront is a nice walk to enjoy the magnificent sunsets of Cochin.

Main sites in Ernakulam

The city of Ernakulam expands to the north and south of the sea front of Kerala and you have to cross it if you are going or coming from Cochin airport.

Few stop to discover what is in these lively neighborhoods. The guidebooks don’t usually mention anything worth your attention. However, in this article I tell you what to do in Ernakulam and some ideas for a city break (which is also Cochin).

Ernakulam Market

Between Broadway, Jew Street and Market Street stretches a market with more than 2000 stores and a wide variety of products. Like everything else in Kerala, this market is a neat and tidy exponent, without the chaos, dirt and noise inherent in Indian cities. Here you will discover that Keralites have something different.

Don’t be fooled by the apparent order. Vendors advertise their freshest vegetables or just-arrived fish, there are themed stalls of all parts of the banana, small stalls of dried fish and men on a small sack on the ground selling handfuls of green chilies.

This market was erected by the Jewish community in the mid-19th century with the support of the maharaja. The community was then engaged in butchery and coconut fiber to make, for example, mattresses. From the 1940s onwards, the exodus of Jews to Palestine left the market empty. The stalls were acquired by other communities that made up the market as we know it today.

The synagogues of Ernakulam

Around the market there are still some landmarks of Ernakulam’s history, such as the medieval synagogues. The first Jews arrived in Kerala in 600 BC after the destruction of the temple in Jerusalem by Nebuchadnezzar. Their presence was key to the spice trade with the Middle East. Of the thousands of Jews from Kerala there are only 22 left today living around Cochin and Ernakulam.

The origins of the two synagogues that today are hidden in the narrow streets of the Ernakulam market date back to the 12th century, although the present buildings are more recent.

• Sinagoga de Thekkumbhagom is now under renovation
• Sinagoga de Kadavumbagam. It has limited access inside a beautiful building where now you can find a shop of birds, fish and flowers. A magic experience.

Read more about the Cochin synagoges in this article.

Book a tour in the Jewish heritage of Cochin

Kadavumbagam Synagogue

The Kadavumbagam Synagogue is the most interesting heritage site to see in Ernakulam. It has its entrance through an alley facing Market Street. Its history dates back to an early foundation in the 13th century in the town of Cranganore, further north of Cochin. Around 1800 they were forced to abandon their position in Cranganore and the members of the community moved to Ernakulam where they re-founded the synagogue.

In the 1950s and 1960s many Jews from the synagogue left Kerala and moved to Israel. In 1972 it was completely closed, its treasures were moved to Israel, where a cultural center of the Jews of Kerala is preserved. The unmaintained building suffered structural damage and in 1977 a burglary took what little remained inside.

Shortly thereafter, the community gave the building to Elias Josephai who recovered the space for worship, but also turned it into a plant, flower and pet store. Hence my sense of discovery.

As I entered the alley, I saw the structure that looked like an old building, all surrounded by plants and flowers. When I reached the door, the sign announced the history of the place, but when I looked inside I could only see aquariums and goldfish. The woman who showed me through confirmed that there was an active synagogue at the back. When I opened its doors, it was like finding a hidden treasure. The place is beautiful and Mr. and Mrs. Josephai proudly tell the story of this hidden corner of Ernakulam that today everyone knows as Cochin Blossoms.

The synagogue had a social hall which today is the fish store and an upper floor for the Jewish school. Before reaching the temple, an antechamber or azara was reminiscent of the courtyard of the Temple in Jerusalem. Inside the synagogue we have a room covered by hydraulic tiles typical of southern India with a multitude of crystal chandeliers of various inspirations. In the main room there is a part of the tebah or pulpit and a painted teak arch or heichal to keep the Torah scrolls. The ceiling is of Indian inspiration and repeats the motifs of the lotus flower. On the upper floor and behind wooden lattices or mechitzah is the space dedicated to women.

Thekkumbhagom synagogue

Thekkumbhagom synagogue is hidden behind an iron gate and is currently under repair. The building was founded in 1200 and was rebuilt in 1948. The splendor of the temple is only partially visible from Jew Street. There is a contact phone number in case you want to know more about the future of the building (+914842390187, +914844049991).

Ernakulam promenade

Strolling in front of the Arabian Sea is a pleasure, although the best way to enjoy the shade and views of Marine Drive is at sunset. The best sunsets in Cochin for photography lovers are in the Chinese nets of Fort Kochi. Here you will enjoy a wide and melancholy view of the sunset over the harbor interrupted at times by the horn of large ships sailing to farther horizons.

Shopping in Ernakulam

On the islands of Kochi there are mostly antique, souvenir and textile stores geared towards tourists. However, if you want to buy more contemporary or everyday products in Kerala, it is worth going to Ernakulam for shopping.

Fashion Street

A short walk away from the KSRTC pier is Fashion Street. This commercial hub is dedicated to international brand-name off-the-shelf remnants and is one of the reasons why people in Ernakulam are so fashionable. According to several sources, surplus production from labels such as Superdry or Benetton are sold by weight to retailers here. The main store is CottonFab underneath the Indonesian restaurant Nasi and Meen. Of course, it is a golden opportunity to get a few designer clothes or well-known brands in Europe and America at a ridiculous price.

On the street, there are also flea markets with similar products and you can bargain a little. However, it’s nice to be able to use CottonFab‘s fitting rooms and air-conditioning. Don’t expect Indian-style fashion. Surprisingly, there is a lot more men’s fashion, which is unusual in this type of market.

MG Road

The main avenue of Ernakulam is dedicated to Mahatma Gandhi. If you want to see a traffic jam, come here at rush hour. Major international brand stores are here, but also prestigious silk saree stores like Jayalakshmi Silks, Utsav Fashion or Chennai Silks.

If you feel like walking through an air-conditioned mall and gossiping about the brands sold in India, you can go to Center Square Mall. Next door you have the Kavitha Cinema and Shenoys Cinema where Malayalam movies are always shown, if you feel like visiting an Indian cinema. Make sure it is a romantic comedy, because the movies are without subtitles!

La avenida principal de Ernakulam está dedicada al Mahatma Gandhi. Si quieres ver un atasco, ven aquí a hora punta. Las principales tiendas de marcas internacionales están aquí, pero también prestigiosos comercios de saris de seda como Jayalakshmi Silks, Utsav Fashion o Chennai Silks.

Si te apetece caminar por un centro comercial con aire acondicionado y cotillear las marcas que se venden en la India, puedes ir hasta Al lado tienes el cine Kavitha y el cine Shenoys donde siempre pasan películas en malayalam, por si tienes ganas de visitar un cine indio. Asegúrate de que sea una comedia romántica, porque el cine es ¡sin subtítulos!

Check the movies in Ernakulam cinemas

Cómo llegar a Cochín y Ernakulam

If you arrive in Cochin by train or plane, you will most likely have to cross the town of Ernakulam before reaching the islands of Fort Cochin or Willingdon.

Once there, the best way to reach the mainland is by continuous ferries departing for the KSRTC pier in Ernakulam. You have one in the Mattancherry area and one on Calvathy Road, depending on where you are staying.

From the KSRTC pier in Ernakulam you can take an autorickshaw, an Uber or take a metro ride. A few minutes is enough to take you from the peace to the hustle and bustle of Ernakulam Market, M.G. Road or Fashion Street.

Do you want to plan a visit to Ernakulam on your own?

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