Recently, I had the opportunity to visit Curitiba, a beautiful city in southern Brazil. Curitiba is a medium-sized city in Brazil, in the state of Paraná, and one of the capitals with the best standard of living in the South American giant. Although it is not well known as a tourist destination, there is a lot to do in Curitiba and the Paraná coast has beautiful places to enjoy the sea and nature.
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Tours and activities in Curitiba
Curitiba is a city of 2 million inhabitants 100 kilometers from the Atlantic coast. It is the capital of the state of Paraná and has a reputation for being a modern and well-planned city, since in the 1990s pioneering measures in urban planning and public transport management were implemented.
The historical part of Curitiba is small and coquettish, but it is true that most of its attractions have to do with parks, culture and contemporary architecture. Perhaps for the latter reason, it is not common to find foreign travelers in Curitiba and there is a lot of Brazilian domestic tourism. A good opportunity to get in touch with Brazil and its culture in a city easy to navigate and very safe, where most museums and monuments are free.
The activities I propose can be done in 2 – 3 days in the city and are based on my last trip to Brazil, in which I made a nine-day drive through the state of Paraná based in Curitiba. If you have less time, you can always book a full city tour in one day.
1. Explore Oscar Niemeyer Museum
One of the activities that impressed me most about the city was the Oscar Niemeyer Museum, also known as MON.
Museum architecture
MON is an art museum designed by the famous Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer. The complex consists of two buildings: the old Castelo Branco building and a new eye-shaped volume, connected by winding ramps over a large mirror of water. From the moment you arrive at the museum, you are impressed by its architecture.
MON is probably the most iconic building in Curitiba. The curved shapes and open spaces create a dynamic and welcoming environment. The building seems to float on water, and the views from inside are spectacular.
The MON collections
But the architecture is not the only thing that makes MON special. The museum houses a permanent collection of Brazilian and international art, including works by artists such as Tarsila do Amaral and Cândido Portinari.
It has two rooms dedicated to its Asian and African art collections. It also hosts temporary exhibitions of contemporary art. This January, the Portuguese artist Joana Vasconcelos was scheduled.
El Museo Oscar Niemeyer es una visita obligada para cualquier persona que visite Curitiba. Suele ser uno de los lugares que más se recuerdan. Le puedes dedicar medio día a la visita.
En el lugar hay cafetería para almorzar algo y una tienda que vende catálogos de la colección y las exposiciones. No está permitido entrar comida ni bebidas, pero el museo ofrece agua de cortesía en la primera planta.
2. Stroll through the streets of the historic center
Curitiba’s historic center has two cores. First, the axis formed by XV de Novembro Street connects several squares that have important buildings such as the Paço da Liberdade and the first headquarters of the Federal University of Paraná, which houses its anthropology museum. It is a pleasant commercial area for strolling during the day, but at nightfall it becomes a bit inhospitable.
The second part of the old town is located on a hill, very close to rua XV de Novembro. Praça Tiradentes is the link between the two parts. The Cathedral of Curitiba is located here.
Largo da Ordem
One of the most emblematic places in the historic center is Largo da Ordem. This sloping street is home to some of the oldest buildings in the city, the baroque Igreja da Ordem Terceira de São Francisco das Chagas and the Curitiba Memorial cultural center. At night, it is quite a lively place to come for a beer and a bite to eat. It is accessed from behind the cathedral.
At the end of the largo da Ordem is Praça Garibaldi, the heart of the historic center. Here you will find more old mansions, the tourist office and the Church of Nossa Senhora do Rosario dos Homens Pretos. From here, two parallel streets ascend to the Belvedere, a modernist building that crowns the park with the ancient ruins of the church of San Francisco. Nearby is also the Museu Paranaense, which we will talk about later.
A large number of young people congregate here any day of the week at sunset, but especially on weekends.
Feirinha do Largo da Ordem
On Sunday early in the morning, much of the historic hill closes to make way for a market of handicrafts and local food.
The Feirinha do Largo da Ordem is a perfect place to sample traditional Curitiba cuisine. Here you can find various typical dishes, such as pão de queijo (cheese bread), pastel de carne (meat pie) and chipa (corn bread).
Tips for visiting the historic center of Curitiba
Here are some tips to make the most of your visit to Curitiba’s historic center:
- Most of the streets are cobblestone and sloping. They can be slippery in the rain, so wear good shoes.
- Avoid the less crowded streets at night and the area around rua XV de Novembre and Praça Tiradentes.
- If you go by car, keep in mind that all of Curitiba has a paid parking system.
For lunch in the historic center of Curitiba, many bars offer snacks and drinks. If you are looking for something more consistent, you have the Cantina e Pizzaria Baviera restaurant, one of the most traditional in the city, and the trendy place to eat gourmet burgers and steaks: Madero Steak House Prime. I also liked the 257 PizzaShop.
If you are looking for a night out, here you will find bars like Follia that always have people and the samba bar O Tal do Quintal that I will tell you about later.
3. Get to know the native peoples at the Paranaense Museum
If you are already in the old neighborhood, you can’t miss the collections of the Museu Paranense, which is free of charge.
The Paranaense Museum was founded in 1876 and is one of the oldest museums in Brazil. The museum houses a collection of more than 500,000 objects, representing the natural and cultural history of the state of Paraná, but don’t worry, not all of them are on display.
The collections are distributed in two buildings. The oldest is the São Francisco Palace, which has historical furnishings from its first inhabitants.
The Museu Paranaense collection
The museum’s collection is divided into three main areas:
- Natural history: This area includes collections of paleontology, geology, botany and zoology. The paleontology collection is particularly impressive, as it includes fossils of dinosaurs and other prehistoric creatures.
- Anthropology: This area includes collections of rock art, archeology and ethnography. The rock art collection is one of the most important in Brazil, and contains paintings and engravings of the indigenous peoples that inhabited the state of Paraná.
- History: This area includes collections of objects related to the history of Paraná, from colonial times to the present. The collection of colonial objects is particularly interesting, as it includes artifacts from the first inhabitants of the region.
Tips for visiting the Museu Paranaense
Here are some tips to make the most of your visit to the Paranaense Museum:
- In my opinion, the two most interesting parts of the museum dealt with the diversity of the native peoples in the Paraná region with ritual and everyday objects, ethnographic photographs…. And then, also the big ramp with life stories of the different immigrant communities that formed the current state. For this part you need a little time, since it is an oral exhibition, the most interesting are the life stories. I recommend that you plan half a day to visit it.
Very close to the museum is Curitiba’s main mosque, in case you are curious to meet the city’s Muslim community.
If you are looking for a place to eat or have a coffee after your visit to the museum, there are several options nearby that I have already mentioned in the previous section.
4. Enjoy a concert at the Arame Opera House
The Ópera de Arame is one of the most emblematic places in Curitiba. This theater of tubular structure and transparent roof was designed by architect Domingos Bongestabs and inaugurated in 1992. It is located a bit far from the city center, but it is easily reached by car or the Curitiba tourist bus will take you there.
The Arame Opera House is located in Parque das Pedreiras, an urban park north of downtown Curitiba. The theater is surrounded by nature, which creates a unique and special environment. The space of an old quarry was used to build this unique theater.
The structure of the Arame Opera House is a masterpiece of modern architecture. The steel tubes that form the structure are covered with transparent polycarbonate plates, giving the theater an ethereal and delicate appearance.
The theater has a capacity of 1,572 spectators. It is used for a variety of events, including concerts, operas, ballets and theater performances.
Live Music at the Arame Opera House
No need to book tickets for the opera, in this iconic building of the city you can listen to live music any day. The Vale da Música project regularly brings musicians to play on a floating platform in the center of the lake. The atmosphere of the visit is wonderful.
The Opera’s café and restaurant, on the shore of the lake, is perfect to enjoy the music of Vale da Música. Although a bit expensive, it is well worth a longer stay in this magical place.
5. Tour the Botanical Garden and its greenhouse
Jardim Botânico de Curitiba is an oasis of nature in the heart of Curitiba and one of the most popular places in the city. This 245,000 square meter botanical garden is a mixture of French garden and botanical garden. It houses a wide variety of plants, from trees and flowers to aquatic plants and cacti, with bromeliads being the main attraction.
The most emblematic place in the garden is the Estufa, a greenhouse with an iron and glass structure that contains some of the plants in the collection. Behind the greenhouse, there is a covered space with a café and an exhibition of plants of the four seasons, with preeminence of the aforementioned bromeliads.
The Garden of Sensations
The tour continues through a large park full of araucarias, the typical pine tree of this region, and a large lake. Unfortunately, the Garden of the Senses was under renovation when I visited it, but I think it will be a very interesting experience. The proposal is to visit the garden paying attention to the senses in a 30 minute tour. It is not only an activity for children or families, but adults will also enjoy it. The idea is to expose you to other sensations of nature that are often eclipsed by sight.
If you are visiting the Botanical Garden in summer, don’t forget to carry water, as part of the park has no shade and water is only sold at the entrance and in the greenhouse cafeteria.
6. Stretch your legs at Barigui Park
Barigui Park, named after one of the most annoying mosquitoes in Brazil (it’s so small you can’t see it), is the most popular park in the city. Many people come here to bike, run or hike. It has trails and bike paths around a large lake with views of the city’s skyscrapers. Access and parking are free.
One of the peculiarities of this park is that it has a colony of capybaras, the largest rodent in the world. They live in the quieter areas around the lake and on some islands in the Barigui River. You can see them swimming, eating grass or lying in the sun, resting. They are so used to humans that they don’t even flinch when you approach them, but remember that they are wild animals.
On the shore of the lake there is a nice bar and terrace, where you can have a juice, a coffee or a beer with a view of the nature. In the area there is also an ice cream parlor and a little further away, a restaurant, which is not always open. At the west end of the lake there is a large amusement park (Tuesday to Sunday, 10 reais per ride).
Other parks in Curitiba
If there is one thing that characterizes the capital of Paraná, it is its diversity of green areas and natural spaces. Curitiba’s parks range from small green lungs in the city center to large expanses of forest. These are some of the parks you can’t miss if you visit the city.
- Passseio Público is the park in downtown Curitiba. It was once the site of the city zoo, although today you will only find small animals. It is near the Cathedral, from where you can walk.
- Parque Tanguá is the place to enjoy the sunset in Curitiba. Being somewhat elevated, it shows the colors of the sunset against the city skyline. Like the Arame Opera House, it is also located in an old quarry.
- Parque Tingui. Its name refers to a community that inhabited this area of Paraná whose cacique you will find a sculpture. The green strip extends along the banks of the Barigui River.
- El bosque de Juan Pablo II commemorates the Pope’s visit to Curitiba in 1980. It has a large reserve of 300 araucarias, the native tree and symbol of this region of Paraná.
7. Discover the history of Paraná and its migrant communities
I have already mentioned that the Museu Paranaense has a section dedicated to the different communities that migrated to Paraná and constitute the current population of the state.
Curitiba goes a step further and has erected tributes to these communities in many parks. These monuments range from the simple Praça do Japao in the Batel neighborhood to reproductions of traditional houses. Some are quite impressive and worth a visit:
- The Memorial to the Ukrainian Community is located in Tingüi Park. It consists of a wooden orthodox church with a collection of orthodox handicrafts and icons. The state of Paraná has a large population of Ukrainian origin and has made a flag of denunciation of the Ukrainian genocide during the years of the Stalinist dictatorship.
- The memorial to Polish immigration in John Paul II Park consists of everyday objects and tools and a copy of the Black Madonna of Czestochowa, the patron saint of Poles.
- Arab Memorial in the Passeio Público. It is a Moorish style building that today houses a library.
- Praça do Japao has a small Zen garden and a tea pavilion containing a small museum of Japanese artifacts.
- Bosque Alemao is the memorial to this community, one of the most important in southern Brazil. It has several buildings that recall the German culture, such as the Bach Oratory, the path of John and Mary that narrates the tale of the Brothers Grimm or the Torre dos Filósofos viewpoint.
8. Listen or dance samba live
Curitiba is a city with a rich musical culture, although many people do not imagine it, samba is one of the most popular musical forms. There are many places in the city where you can listen to samba, although none of them have a daily schedule from Monday to Sunday:
- One of the most popular places to listen to samba in Curitiba is the Nilo Samba & Choro This bar and restaurant is located in the Rebouças neighborhood and has the most regular schedule, with live music from Tuesday to Sunday. The bar has a resident band that plays a variety of samba, from traditional classics to new hits. It is the best place to listen to choro, a subgenre of samba born in the 1930s with a more lyrical component.
- Another popular and my favorite place to listen to samba in Curitiba is O tal do Quintal. This restaurant and bar is located in the old neighborhood and offers live music from Thursday to Sunday. As the night heats up more and more people dance and, as it is a young people’s hangout, it is always lively. You can have a few drinks and snacks, but on Saturday they offer the typical samba with feijoada. Here they play the resident band and different guest bands, so you can see the schedule on their Instagram. The entrance fee is 30 reais.
If you are visiting Curitiba during Carnival, which includes the months of January and February, don’t miss the opportunity to hear samba in the streets. Carnaval da Rua is a very popular celebration that carnival groups start several weeks before the official carnival. You will find batukadas, samba and many people dancing (and drinking) in the squares and streets of the city. To learn more you can follow the Carnival groups of Curitiva like, for example, Garibaldis e Sasis, one of the oldest and most active in the historical center.
Finally, if you are looking for a more formal experience, you can visit the Teatro Guaíra. This theater located in downtown Curitiba presents various musical performances, including samba concerts. The theater has a symphony orchestra and choir that often accompany the samba artists.
Excursions from Curitiba
If you are in Curitiba for more than two or three days, you will surely be itching to explore the Serra do Mar region or the interior of the state. Here is an article about the best places to visit on the coast of Paraná.
However, you also have the option of day trips from Curitiba that will take you to incredible places such as the Vila Velha state park or the Serra do Mar vineyards.
- Hot air baloon ride in Sao Bento do Sul, a perfect activity for a family.
- A great option to hike is Castro and Guaratelá canyon tour.
- Hiking at Morro de Capivari Mirim is another choice if you want to dive into the mountains of Curitiba.
9. Vila Velha State Park in Ponta Grossa
Parque Estadual de Vila Velha is a natural park located in the city of Ponta Grossa, an hour and a half from Curitiba by car. The park is known for its impressive sandstone rock formations, which were formed 300 million years ago by wind and water erosion.
The sandstones of Vila Velha
The most characteristic forms of the park are the arenitos, sandstone rocks that have been taking curious shapes over the centuries and erosion. Some say that they look like a medieval city as a whole, and the truth is that many rocks have been named for their similarity to forms of nature. It is not only an interesting visit, but also playful, ideal for families with children.
The cenotes of Vila Velha
The other great attraction of the park are the cenotes or furnas, which were formed in the same period when part of the lower layers of soil collapsed. These cenotes have crystalline waters where live unique species of fish that for millions of years have not been in contact with any other animal.
In the area of the furnas there is a children’s playground, zip lines over the cenotes, tree climbing and an elevator will soon be inaugurated to go down to one of them. However, unlike other cenotes in Paraná, swimming is not allowed.
The park is also home to various flora and fauna. Among the most common plants are araucarias, palms and bromeliads. Among the most common animals are monkeys, birds and reptiles. There are many warnings of poisonous animals, but we did not see any.
Tips for visiting Vila Velha
To get to Vila Velha you need a private vehicle or hire an excursion from Curitiba. The park has a parking lot that is paid separately from the entrance fee (25 reais). The entrance fee to the park is not cheap, it costs 120 reais for foreigners, but it includes the tour in park vehicles inside the nature reserve. It also includes an orientation and brief explanations at each point of interest.
Here are some additional tips to make the most of your visit to Vila Velha State Park:
- Arrive early to avoid crowds and having to walk during the hottest hours of the day.
- Prepare at least 4 hours to visit the park, it is difficult to do it in less time.
- Bring comfortable shoes and water. There is a lot of walking, but the longest stretches are covered by park vehicles.
You can bring your own food, but the park has a bar (lanchonette) with sandwiches and snacks and a restaurant where you can have a full lunch.
10. Brazilian wine tours near Curitiba
As a wine lover, I am constantly looking for new experiences to enjoy my favorite beverage. When I discovered that near Curitiba, in the state of Paraná, there was a thriving wine industry, I immediately started researching.
It turns out that the Serra do Mar region is an ideal place for growing grapes. The mild, humid climate and fertile soils create ideal conditions for wine production. Italian immigrant families were the first to discover the potential of these lands.
There are several wine routes that can be followed in the region. One of the most popular is the São José dos Pinhais Wine Tour. This route includes visits to six wineries, where you can learn about the wine production process and taste various wines from the region. Among them is the winery Vinícola Araucaria, which you can also visit on your own.
Unlike wineries in Argentina, Chile or Europe, they have a more playful approach to the visit. However, for many of you it may be more attractive than an academic visit to many wineries around the world.
Tips for visiting wineries on the wine route in Curitiba
These are my personal tips to enjoy the wine routes near Curitiba:
- Visits to the wineries are only available on weekends.
- If you are not familiar with wine, you can hire a guide to help you learn about the different types of wine and how to taste them.
- In season, it is best to book the visits in advance, so I have left you two links where you can book the tours from Curitiba.
- If you want to go on your own by car, contact the wineries to confirm their opening hours.
To be honest, I would say that they did not seem to me to be wines of great quality. However, if you are interested in the history and culture of Italian migration and the current wine culture in Brazil, I think you should visit some of these wineries.
What to visit around Curitiba
If you have more days, I suggest you visit the coast of Paraná. The coast has some historic cities and spectacular beaches. You can tour the Serra do Mar and extend your trip to Curitiba with nature activities and adventure sports. Among the activities to do in Paranaguá and the coast of Paraná are:
- Excursion to Ilha do Mel, one little paradise by the sea. Beautiful beaches, pure nature, no cars.
- Full day in the most famous amusement park in Southern Brazil: Beto Carrero World tour.
And so you don’t miss anything of the Paraná coast, I leave you these articles from the blog:
- What to do in Ilha do Mel
- Paranaguá and the coast of Paraná
To discover these places, I suggest you follow the itinerary I propose to get to know Curitiba and Paraná by car in one week.
Where to stay in Curitiba
We stayed at the Hotel Pestana Curitiba, a 4-star hotel of the Portuguese chain that runs, for example, Cristiano Ronaldo’s hotel. It was not as expensive as you might expect. The room had a nice view of downtown, the breakfast very complete and an excellent location. Situated between Batel and the historic center, it was walking distance to the old quarter and had restaurants nearby and the famous Rua 24 horas. On the second part of the trip we stayed at another recommended hotel, the Río Hotel by Bourbon, a bit cheaper, located in Batel, opposite Praça do Japao. To get around here you needed a car or public transportation, but it was more difficult to walk.
Other hotels located near the historic center with an excellent quality/price ratio are the Ibis Curitiba, Hotel Deville Curitiba Batel and Manhattan Floor. If you are looking for a charming hotel in the historic center, you can’t miss the Johnscher by San Juan.
For more information on the best hotels and neighborhoods to stay in Curitiba, I will soon write a post with tips on how to choose the perfect hotel in the city.
Do you want to plan a trip to Curitiba on your own?
These are some tools to help you prepare for your travel to Brazil from home. It’s just about time to start planning your next holidays.
PROFESSIONAL ETHICS. This post contains some affiliate links.
These links allow you to follow my recommendations and book them, and provide a little commission. Thus, you help keep this travel blog ad-free at no extra cost to you.
Travel safe!
Leave your questions about Curitiba in the comment section below, and I will get back to you. If you already have your trip planned, I hope it will be an incredible experience. Have a safe trip.
