Paraguay by car: one-week itinerary for culture and nature lovers

After my trips to Paraguay by car, I propose you a travel itinerary of 9 days and an extension of 4 days for you to plan a route through Paraguay.

The itinerary is optimized to plan a trip to Paraguay by car on your own. You need at least one week and from the first week, you can add an extension according to your interests or travel to other neighboring countries.

In Paraguay, the easiest way to rent a car is at the Asunción airport. However, you will also find some rental agencies in some shopping centres of the city.

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Day 1 and 2. Asunción del Paraguay

We will take advantage of the first two days of the trip to walk the streets of downtown Asunción and visit some of its museums and landmarks.

Things to see in Asunción

You cannot miss the Lopez Palace, especially from the waterfront in front of the Paraguay River. You can also visit the Casa de la Independencia and other colonial buildings such as the Cabildo or the Cathedral.

Furthermore, you have to dedicate a morning to the Museo del Barro where you can appreciate the best of Paraguay’s indigenous art and cultures.

And in the time between visits, be sure to visit the best restaurants in Asunción that will serve you to enter fully into the Paraguayan gastronomy. Outside Asunción, you will not find such a rich offer of restaurants, nor so much nightlife.

I also suggest these three ways to visit the city with a guide:

• Private tour in Asunción

• Birdwatching tour in Asunción to discover the unique fauna of the city and the Paraguay river.
• Bike tour around Asunción historical quarter.

Where to stay in Asunción

• Luxury. Palmaroga Hotel. It is a restored historic building in the heart of Palma Street, the heart of the historic center of Asuncion.
• Mid-range. Hotel Manduara. It is a good hotel, well located and with spectacular views from the rooftop terrace, which also has a swimming pool.
• Budget. Isla Francia. In front of the French Alliance where there are always cultural activities. It has a garden ideal for barbecues and a superb atmosphere.

From here you can do the route through Paraguay on your own or hire a 6-day tour from Asunción. It includes almost all the destinations of the route from day 3 to 8. You can also choose a 1 day tour from Asunción.

Day 3. Ypacaraí Lake

Spend the whole day in the region of Lake Ypacaraí, the largest lake in the country. You can visit Areguá and the Lake Cultural Centre in the morning. Areguá is one of the most important handicraft centers in the country.

If you are doing a Paraguay by car trip, you can go to eat in Pirayú which has a very well-preserved historic center. Eduvigis restaurant is the perfect place to experience Paraguayan cuisine in a colonial house.

In the evening, you can enjoy the sunset in San Bernardino. It was a German foundation that has become the vacation town of the Asuncenos. It has many restaurants and some beaches on the lake.

You can return to Asunción to sleep or stay in a historic hotel like the Hotel del Lago or the charming Casa del Cerro.

Day 4. San Ignacio and Santa María

Days 03, 04 and 05 can be spent touring these southern departments of Paraguay. On the way, you have to stop in Yaguarón with its spectacular Franciscan church and take a walk through the sandy beaches of Villa Florida.

When you get to Misiones, you will see a change of scenery. This is a land of ranchers, and it is not unusual to see a horseman on the road. Visit one of the Jesuit museums in Santa Maria, Santiago or San Ignacio Guasu where you can spend the night.

Where to stay in Misiones

• Budget. Santa María Hotel. The town of Santa Maria is charming and the hotel is located in a restored Indian house.
• Mid-range. San Ignacio Country Club. It is on Route 1 and has cabins in nature.

Days 5 and 6. Encarnación

En route to Encarnación, you have to stop at San Cosme y Damián, the first Jesuit reduction still standing and in use. The visit to the mission is guided and included in the price. You can also visit the beach on the Paraná River and an indigenous community.

By mid-afternoon you will be in Encarnación, the pearl of the south. It is a vacation destination for Paraguayans who come to the beaches of Paraná river. The city has a lot of commerce and nightlife due to its proximity to Argentina. You can easily cross to Posadas. It is also famous in February for its massive Carnival celebrations.

The next day, it is time to visit the two Jesuit missions of Trinidad and Jesús de Tavarangüe, which are included in the UNESCO World Heritage Site. In both cases, the churches are in ruins, but the organization of the Jesuit missions of Paraguay is perfectly understandable. Both visits are conducted with a guide included in the entrance fee.

In addition, in the area of Itapúa you can visit the Guavirami Mby’a Guaraní indigenous community. The visit includes an explanation of their beliefs and the ascent to a 17th century quarry.

Where to stay in Encarnación

• Mid-range. Hotel Sun. Modern hotel in front of the riverfront. The rooms have views of the Paraná and a spectacular sunset. Swimming pool in the rooftop, where you will also find a nice cocktail bar.
• Boutique Hotel. Hotel Milord. The restaurant is one of the best in town. A small hotel in front of the waterfront with a French vibe.

Days 7 and 8. Ciudad del Este and Paraná waterfalls

From Encarnación you can start the trip to Ciudad del Este. One option en route is to stop in Bellavista to visit the Ruta del Mate. If you don’t mind driving on gravel or dirt roads, take a detour to the Ñacunday waterfalls, of spectacular amplitude and in a place with almost no visitors.

If, on the other hand, you are short on time and can only visit one, you can stay at the Parque Natural del Monday in Presidente Franco. This way, you can experience the views of the waterfalls at sunset and sunrise. Afterward, you can take a walk around Ciudad del Este to see the shopping vortex of this border city and return to Asunción.

An extra day in Ciudad del Este would allow you to spend a full day at the Yguazu Falls just a short distance from the border with Brazil or Argentina. Personally, I like the views on the Argentine side better, but the Brazilian side has better facilities within the natural park and during the pandemic has been more accessible.

Where to stay in Ciudad del Este

• Mid-range. Hotel Dazzler CDE. It is a bit in the outskirts of the city center, but has excellent facilities. This is one of the most valued hotel brands in Paraguay and its service is the best you can fin in Ciudad del Este.
• Mid-range. Monday Park Cabins. Fixed-price cabins for 6 people in a nature reserve overlooking the Monday River. It is perfect if you travel in a small group, as you get to enjoy the waterfalls all for yourselves.

Day 9. Caacupé

If you leave early from Ciudad del Este to Asunción you can make some stops on the way.

I recommend a visit to Itacurubí de la Cordillera for a swim in one of the resorts like Ita Koty. Another very interesting option en route is Paraguarí, which was one of the strongholds of the War of the Triple Alliance and has a well-preserved historic center.

Also, en route through Paraguay by car you will find Caacupé, the most important sanctuary city of faith in the country and also one of the most famous areas for the chipa (local bread). You must visit the Basilica of the Virgin of Caacupé.

You can stay in Asunción or if you are looking for something more in nature, I love Casa del Monte in Atyrá.

Extension to the Paraguayan Chaco

To complete a trip to Paraguay by car, add the experience of getting to know the Paraguayan Chaco and the Mennonite colonies, in addition to the Eastern Paraguay route, which means 3-4 more days of travel.

The Chaco is an exceptional territory. Distances are long and there are few paved roads. It is divided into the humid Chaco in the south and the dry Chaco in the north. It occupies more than half of Paraguay, but only has a population of one hundred thousand inhabitants.

Days 10, 11 and 12. The Paraguayan Chaco

From Asunción, the drive is about 6-7 hours to the Mennonite colonies. Filadelfia is the perfect base to get to know the region. You can visit the city’s museums that explain the Chaco ecosystem and the arrival of Mennonite refugees from Europe and Canada.

You can dedicate a day to visiting the Mennonite colony of Neuland which has the reputation of being the most well-preserved. The Selva Serena reserve is an ideal place to get close to the Chaco forests.

Loma Plata is the most historical town in Chaco. It has several forts belonging to the Chaco War and the main area of salt lakes. The lagoons are an extraordinary place for bird watching and if you go with a good nature guide you can also see capybaras, taguas, tatús, foxes… and lots of yakaré (crocodiles).

If you are passionate about nature, you have to hire a Chaco safari in a private ranch. The Chaco is the territory of the jaguar (jaguareté), although this feline is very elusive. Other felines in Paraguay are the colored puma, the jaguarundi (a puma the size of a cat) and the jaguareté tirica (ocelot). To spot them, you need time, patience and dedication, not suitable for travelers rushing.

Where to stay in Filadelfia

The best option is to contact Estancia Yparomá. Mrs. Marylina has marked nature trails at her ranch and can arrange a visit to the salt lakes, bird and wildlife watching and visits to indigenous communities.

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