Ladakh travel guide: all you need to know

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Leh, the Indus Valley and the remote regions of Zanskar and Nubra make for an exceptional destination where you can encounter nature, and get up close to the best preserved form of Tibetan Buddhism. Find here a Ladakh travel guide to plan your trip to Ladakh offers a peace and tranquility that makes you think you have left India.

Based on my experience of many visits to Leh, I present a travel guide to Little Tibet for independent travelers, where you will find many ideas on how to make the most of your vacation to this special part of India.

Basic facts about Ladakh

Ladakh (ལ་དྭགས་) is a unique territory of the Indian Himalayas. The desert landscapes of these valleys are surrounded by 6000 meter mountains. The Indus River is the backbone of a world of Tibetan culture, with ancient monasteries that were historically part of Kashmir.

• Population. 250 000 inhabitants. Ladakh is one of the least densely populated areas in India. Half of the population is Muslim and the other half Tibetan Buddhist. There is a small Hindu community (10 %).
• Capital. Leh is a small city of only thirty thousand inhabitants.
• Government. In 2019, the Modi-led Government of India suspended the Constitution of Kashmir and divided the state into two parts. Ladakh is now a Union Territory with a governor appointed by the President of the Republic.
• Languages. English, Urdu and Hindi are widely spoken in Ladakh. Ladakhi is a language written in Tibetan script that does not have official language status in India.

What visa do I need to travel to Ladakh?

You can travel to Ladakh with a passport valid for 6 months and a tourist visa for India. No special permits are required to travel in the Indus Valley and Leh area. You can check the visa requirements for India here.

A special permit is only required if we want to visit border areas with Pakistan or China, where there are military detachments. These are usually remote areas that are very difficult to access, so you will most likely not go there.

How to get to Ladakh

Leh airport is the main access point to Ladakh. It is a domestic airport with many constraints due to Leh’s rugged terrain and climate. Some flights may incur delays and cancellations.

Many Indian airlines serve Leh airport which connects mainly to the cities of Delhi, Mumbai and Amritsar. Flights are available from 50 euros.

Travel to Ladakh by road

Leh can be reached by road from Srinagar and from Manali, both roads accessible only in the summer months.

• From Manali to Leh, the route is 430 kilometers that can be done in two days. Normally the route has a stop at the Sarchu meadow where you have to sleep in tents. On the way, you find the turnoff to Lahaul and Spiti. En route you can visit Hemis and Tikshey and almost reaching Leh.
• From Srinagar to Leh, the journey can be done in two days with a stop at Kargil. The mountain road has several mountain passes and is closed due to weather in the winter months. The 400 km route can be covered in about 12 hours. Along the way you can visit Sonamarg, Kargil, Lamayuru and Alchi, among others.

Getting around Ladakh

The culture of Ladakh is different even for driving. In this region cab drivers are honest and the roads are so empty, so transportation in Ladakh is much easier than in the rest of India. You can even dare to drive, I’ll tell you how!

Of course, the vehicles are not always in the best condition and you have to be a bit patient. Of course, during the winter months many roads are closed, so I do not recommend a trip to Ladakh from November to March.

Motorcycle rental in Leh

This region of the Indian Himalayas is one of the most spectacular destinations for road lovers. You can take a motorcycle tour from Manali.

If you like to go at your own pace, rent a motorcycle in Leh. The roads of Ladakh have very little traffic, as it is the least densely populated region of India. In Leh, you can rent a Royal Enfield, the mythical Indian motorcycle, or a scooter without gears. Both will allow you to make the proposed route in the day and are one of the favorite means of transport in Ladakh.

You must have a valid driving license. Sure there are stores that turn a blind eye, but you can get into trouble with the police.

Around Ladakh by cab

Ladakh has a price offer regulated by the Ladakh Taxi Union, so there is no need to bargain for rides when hiring a cab service in Leh.

You can also hire a vehicle with driver to do the whole route. It will be easier for you to arrange a 7 days itinerary around Ladakh.

Things to do in Ladakh: 4 must-see destinations

Ladakh is one of the great unknowns of India. During the seasonal months, from May to September, Ladakh is an exceptional place to travel to a totally different India. Immerse yourself in the purest Tibetan culture, in one of the few unspoiled regions of Tibetan Buddhism.

1. Leh

Leh is the capital of Ladakh. This city of 30,000 inhabitants is isolated from the world for part of the year. When the tourist season starts, it welcomes all those who come to Ladakh to discover its historical heritage, its living culture and adventure sports in lunar landscapes. Leh has the country’s main market as well as the best cafes and restaurants.

The Leh Palace and the Peace stupa are two of the city’s landmarks. In addition, it is interesting to walk the alleys of the old city which is included in the list of endangered heritage.

• Things to do in Leh and how to plan your visit
• Tips to book the best hotels in Leh

2. Tibetan gompas

The western part of Ladakh has some of the most interesting places in the valley. In Alchi you will find ancient wall paintings in a small village on the banks of the Indus. Lamayuru is one of the unique Buddhist gompas, in the middle of the region known as the land of the Moon. There are other interesting monasteries at Likir and Rizong.

In the eastern part of the Indus Valley are the great monasteries of Ladakh: Hemis and Thikshey. You can appreciate the communal life of the monks in their daily poojas. Other important monasteries are Matho or Stakna, and you also find the ruins of Phey or the summer palace of Stok.

3. Lakes of Ladakh

In the eastern region are Tso Moriri and the large lake of Pangong Tso. Both are destinations for nature lovers who want to take walks along their shores. The mountain landscapes reflected on their waters have a unique beauty.

4. Nubra Valley

Other must-see places in Ladakh are the Nubra and Zanskar valleys. Both are among the most remote destinations in the Indian Himalayas and where you will find wilder nature.

To reach Nubra, you cross the highest mountain pass in the world, Khardung La. Once there you have more accessible destinations like Hunder or more isolated ones like Turtuk. In Nubra there is a 14th century monastery and a cold desert landscape with two-humped Bactrian camels.

Best time to travel to Ladakh

The state of Ladakh has a very extreme climate, so it is not always possible to visit in optimal conditions. In winter, Ladakh is cut off by road. In those months, planes can reach Leh, but the temperatures make travel impossible. That is why it is so important to know when to travel to Ladakh and to prepare in advance.

Once the travel season to Ladakh begins, between May and August, it becomes a prime destination for growing domestic tourism. The mid-season includes the months of April, September and October.

• SPRING: In April the apricot trees bloom and the Indus Valley is spectacular. It can be cold at night and outside Leh many tourist facilities are still closed. It is an ideal time for cultural sightseeing and visiting monasteries from Lamayuru to Hemis. It is neither possible nor advisable to go to the lake area, nor to the Nubra valley because the accommodations have no heating system.
• SUMMER and MONSOON. Between May and September, daytime temperatures are warm, and it is considered the high season for tourism. All road communications are open. Between July and September there may be occasional rain, but Ladakh does not usually suffer from the monsoon as it is protected by the mountain range.

• AUTUMN. The Ladakh Festival in mid-September marks the end of the tourist season. From mid-September to October, the weather changes rapidly. Snow arrives in the mountains and the nights get freezing. You can still drive through the Indus Valley, allowing you to travel from Leh to many monasteries. However, again, you will not be able to trek or visit Nubra and the lakes.

High altitude sickness in Ladakh

It is a syndrome that occurs when ascending suddenly at high altitude. It manifests itself after a few hours at altitude, decreases after a period of acclimatization and disappears immediately upon descent. The characteristic symptoms are headaches, nausea, fatigue, difficulty sleeping…

Leh is between 3300 and 3500 meters, so altitude sickness is a very common effect among visitors. It is necessary to:

• Minimize sudden exertion during the acclimatization period.
• Hydrate a lot
• Avoid alcohol consumption

It is recommended to take medication against altitude sickness, since the reaction is personal and has nothing to do with a good or bad physical condition. Consult your doctor.

What to eat in Ladakh

Ladakh cuisine has many similarities with Tibetan cuisine. You can find similar dishes in Dharamsala and Tibet, but in Ladakh you have to consider the limitations of ingredients due to the Indus Valley environment. Ladakh food is usually not spicy at all.

• Chutagi. It is a handmade pasta typical of Ladakh. It is served with a vegetable and meat sauce.

• Momos are the Tibetan dimsum par excellence. There are chicken, vegetable, paneer and buffalo momos. Vegetable soup, spiced and with momos inside, is known as mokthuk.
• Thukpa. Classic Tibetan wheat noodle soup contains assorted vegetables and may include chicken, mutton or buffalo meat.
• Chang is a fermented millet drink very typical of mountain areas. It has a rather sour taste. Some people like it, although I confess I am not a fan.
• Butter tea. Another difficult drink to consume. Tea with yak butter is a hypercaloric infusion ideal for Himalayan winters. The butter gives the tea a salty taste. It is not my cup of tea either.

Typical dish of Ladakh: Chutagi

Chutagi is pasta that is served slightly brothy. The shape of this homemade handmade pasta is very characteristic and, as with galets, it is filled with the juices of the broth in which it has been cooked. The chutagi can be vegetarian or based on lamb broth with a very mild spice point.

Here is a recipe for chutagi in case you want to make it at home.

Enjoy ladakhi food in Alchi Kitchen

The Leh branch of this well-known Alchi restaurant is a haven for tasting homemade Ladakhi dishes. Every detail of the space has been taken care of to make you feel like you are inside a real Ladakhi home and you can watch the dishes being prepared live.

Its founder, Nilza Wangmo, decided to open this women-run business in the beautiful town of Alchi, which you can visit in the western Ladakh region. It was so successful that it had to open in the capital and has become an important center for spreading the local culture. Apart from cooking all the dishes common to Ladakh families, they offer short courses in Ladakhi cooking. Find out more about their classes on Alchi Kitchen’s profile in Leh.

The most romantic restaurant in Leh

One of the most recommended restaurants in the city is precisely an organic bet with global cuisine, although mainly Mediterranean. Both the garden and the interior of Bon Appetit are a real pleasure. If the weather is good, you must try the dinner under the stars, which in Ladakh have an unusual brightness.

The menu is full of tempting proposals. I encourage you to order the khow suey, a Burmese soup based on egg noodles and curry with coconut milk.

Do you want to plan a trip to Ladakh on your own?

Here are some tools to help you save, while preparing your trip to Indian Himalayas from home. Today can be a great day to start planning your next vacation.

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