Kovalam ( കോവളംം ) is a coastal area in the south of the state of Kerala. The hustle and bustle of the nearby city of Trivandrum has turned the paradise of Kovalam into an everyday haven for the local population. Discovered by hippies in the 1970s, it is a must stop on a trip through Kerala.
The center of Kovalam borders three bays suitable for swimming from September to April. Next door, the fishing village of Vizhinjam bustles with activity. Further south, resort areas with unspoiled beaches and resorts with traditional architecture surrounded by backwaters and mangroves such as Poovar, much more unexplored, have recently developed.
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What to see in Kovalam
The first thing you see when you arrive in Kovalam is a forest of coconut trees surrounding the two most famous bays of Kerala (Hawa Beach and Lighthouse Beach).
All those who come to Kovalam are attracted by the mythical name of its beaches, something similar to what happens with Goa. However, it often surprises those who spend some time there that the southern part of Kerala is much more than a sun and beach destination.
The proximity of Trivandrum and the authenticity of the neighboring villages add up to a wide range of activities to do in Kovalam.
1. The famous beaches of Kovalam
The main attraction of this small town on the Malabar coast are the three beaches that are accessible and suitable for swimming. The three bays are connected by a road that at times is a promenade. Moving from one to the other does not present much difficulty.
- Lighthouse Beach is the largest and southernmost. It is dominated by the lighthouse promontory and has a promenade lined with beach bars and restaurants. You can rent an umbrella and a hammock to avoid getting stained by the sand for one hundred rupees (prices fluctuate according to demand).
- Hawa Beach is the next one to the north. When arriving by the main access, it is on the right, after the parking lot. There are usually quite a few Indians bathing. In times of rough seas it is somewhat more protected than the lighthouse.
- Samudra Beach is to the north, after passing the cape of the Leela Hotel. It is relatively remote and, therefore, is usually a quiet beach, with few visitors and where local fishermen can carry out their activities.
- There are other beaches such as Harry Beach that are smaller and difficult to access. In season, visitors try to reach it through the rocks, but you have to be careful because it can be dangerous. I do not recommend it.
⚠️ WARNING
During the monsoon months, the sand on Kovalam’s beaches is mostly black due to sediment left by the currents.
2. Vizhinjam Lighthouse
10-20 rupees. Tuesday to Sunday. From 10 a.m. to 12.45 p.m. and from 2 p.m. to 5.45 p.m.
A 36-meter lighthouse dominates the two main bays that form Kovalam. The tower with its red and white stripes marks with its incessant light the rhythm of this coastal town. The lighthouse stands on a promontory overlooking the harbor. Vizhinjam is the main fishing port in southern Kerala. It was built in 1960 and renovated in 2003.
The best thing about the lighthouse are the views it offers both to the north, where the beaches are, and to the south, where hundreds of fishermen come and go to the port of Vizhinjam.
3. The fishing village of Vizhinjam
From Kovalam you will see lots and lots of fishing boats coming and going all day long. They arrive and depart from the port of Vizhinjam, a small village within walking distance from the Kovalam lighthouse. If you don’t want to get lost, hire an autorickshaw to get there and back. The ride costs less than a hundred rupees, and often the driver will offer to wait for you for a little longer and bring you back.
Vizhinjam is a Muslim and Christian village because the Hindus considered the work of a fisherman impure. If you walk there, you will probably first find the mosque area on the north side of the inlet. On the headland there are two large buildings: the white and green student mosque (Muhyyidin Juma Masjid) and the Kodiyil Kalluppalli Mosque with golden details. It is not uncommon to see fishermen darning their nets in front of the temples.
As you descend towards the sea, you will pass through a neighborhood of shanties where fishermen live and work. The bustle of boats is incredible, especially in the afternoon. Before turning into the harbor, you will enter the fishing community, dominated by the imposing Jama Masjid. There are always groups of men gathering after work to mend nets or play cards.
4. Vizhinjam fish market
Passing the mosque, you should continue to the right towards the beach where there are several Christian churches. Before reaching the sand you will see the old Portuguese church of Vizhinjam dedicated to Santa Maria. The building dates back to 1875. This simple church has a dark interior with a musty smell, and the roof is reinforced with sheet metal. A multicolored altar dominates the space where believers approach before or after launching into the sea.
The boats that were fishing unload directly on the sand. The beach is a hive of shoppers looking for the freshest fish. It is fascinating how there can be so many people and so much movement in such a small space. Auctions are held on the sand and customers range from Kovalam restaurants to fishmongers from neighboring villages. On the parking lot side, women sell retail. Many of them are the wives of sailors who have taken part of their catch home and take the opportunity to make one last attempt to sell.
⚠️ I warn you that it is not a nice or clean place, but if you dare to go to the end and watch for a while, you will take away the satisfaction of having shared one of those pieces of the most authentic India.
Excursions from Kovalam
Kovalam can be your center to discover the southern part of the state of Kerala. You can consider a visit to the capital of Kerala. Beyond Trivandrum and the famous beaches, there is a very extensive coastline with endless sandy beaches, mangroves and the first backwaters of Kerala.
You can not forget the spectacular Padmanabhapuram Palace, which is already within Tamil Nadu, but belongs to the Kerali cultural heritage.
1. Padmanabhapuram Palace in Thuckalay
350 rupees. Tuesday to Sunday. From 9 a.m. to 4.30 p.m. You must take off your shoes
Padmanabhantapuram Palace is located in the small town of Thuckalay. Today it belongs to the state of Tamil Nadu, so you may want to visit it when moving from Kovalam to Kanyakumari or vice versa, rather than making the round trip from Kovalam.
The largest surviving wooden palace of the Travancore dynasty is the best example of the lifestyle of this particular South Indian principality. The Travancore kings were once very wealthy, but maintained an austere lifestyle. At first glance, they seem much more humble and restrained than their peers in Rajasthan or Mysore, although they ruled the main spice-producing region.
The palace reveals small spaces and a simple life. The women lived in seclusion in beautiful teak wood pavilions with little chance of seeing the outside world. Inside there were several spaces where you will discover that many of the myths and legends of the Indian maharajas, took place in Travancore. The weighing of the king in gold and precious stones or the fantastic trials to enter the Royal Army are some of the surprises that await a visit to the Thuckalay Palace. This was the seat of power between the 16th and 18th centuries, the time of the arrival and expansion of Europeans in India.
Four kilometers from the Padmanabhapuram palace, you can visit the remains of the Udayagiri fort.
2. Poovar and Golden Beach
The Neyyar River flows into the sea, forming an alluvial island and attractive mangrove swamps that can be explored in small boats. The fauna and flora characteristic of this ecosystem can be observed with the naked eye, but nature lovers will appreciate binoculars and choose non-motorized boats.
On the southern edge of Kerala is one of the wildest sandy beaches in the region. Here you can stroll along the golden sand with the Arabian Sea on one side and the calm waters of the backwaters on the other.
There are several good Ayurvedic clinics in the coconut groves of Poovar. I recommend the clinic at the Isola di Cocco hotel.
3. Temples, museums and culture in Trivandrum
If you are staying many days in Kovalam or have a little time, you can explore Trivandrum. The capital of Kerala not only has several attractions, museums and monuments, but is also considered one of India’s most important cultural centers for classical music and dance.
Here are some ideas for excursions in Trivandrum:
- Trivandrum temple tour to learn about the Hindu religion in Kerala.
- Gastronomic tour through the street food of Trivandrum.
Trivandrum’s agenda is full of cultural events and religious festivals. Find out about the calendar of celebrations in this link.
When to visit Kovalam and the South Coast of Kerala
Kerala is the land of gods and water. The many rivers that flow down from the Western Ghats create the network of canals and streams known as the backwaters. But water also comes from the sky. The climate is humid tropical and the annual monsoon cycle hits Kerala.
In Kovalam the rains are torrential for weeks, so between May and July it is best to avoid this region of India. The May and June rains are deluge-like, but there are years when floods reach into August, as happened in 2018. From mid-August onwards, the rains give way, but never completely disappear in southwestern Kerala.
TIP
⚠️ If you want to enjoy postcard beaches, come from October to March. As the trade winds blow from the southwest, the current brings dark sands to Kovalam and southern Kerala beaches and the surf is strong. Bathing may be prohibited or restricted from May to mid to late September.
How to get to Kovalam
Access to Kovalam is mainly from Trivandrum. You will have to reach the capital of Kerala if you want to reach Kovalam beaches by train or plane.
Flights to Kovalam
Trivandrum airport is only half an hour away from the beaches of Kovalam. It is connected to most major Indian cities by Air India flights and low-cost airlines such as Indigo or Spicejet.
It can also be your gateway to or from India, as it has flights to the Middle East with Qatar Airways, Emirates or Etihad. Many travelers take advantage of this connectivity to make Kovalam their end-of-trip break.
Kovalam by train
Trivandrum railway station is the nearest. It is 15 kilometers from Kovalam. You have to take a local bus, autorickshaw or cab. Being the capital of the state, it is well-connected to the main destinations in India. From Cochin, for example, the journey takes about four hours.
Book a flight, bus or train ticket
Kovalam by car and bus
Kerala’s roads are very narrow and cross heavily populated areas, so traffic jams are common. When traffic is very heavy, there are no alternatives. So you should calculate a slow travel speed. Other than that, the roads are in good condition.
- FROM TRIVANDRUM – The historic area of Trivandrum is half an hour away with little traffic. There are frequent local buses leaving from the main station in Trivandrum and dropping you off in the upper part of Kovalam. You can stop them en route and ask the driver if they go to Kovalam. Normally, the people of Kerala speak very good English and will be able to tell you which one to take. You can also go by autorickshaw or cab.
- FROM BACKWATERS – The route has very dense traffic areas, especially when crossing the metropolitan area of Trivandrum. In total there are 160 kilometers that are done in about four or five hours. If you do not want to do it in one go, you can stop at Varkala, the best beach in Kerala. Being on a cliff, it has not had too much urban development and maintains that chill and alternative air. If you have to do it by public transport, the train from Alleppey is more comfortable.
- FROM KANYAKUMARI – Three hours drive through increasingly green landscapes at the foot of the mountains. You will begin to cross large rivers and water and coconut trees will become omnipresent. At times you will glimpse the last foothills of the Western Ghats. A visit to the Padmanabhantapuram palace in Thuckalay and if you can to the Shiva temple in Suchindram is a must on this route.
What to eat in Kovalam
Kovalam beach is full of beach bars where you can eat fresh fish and seafood. The port of Vizhinjam is a guarantee that all the fish you eat here has arrived in port a few hours ago.
In many places they will prepare international recipes, so you will not find it difficult to order. However, if you are passionate about Indian food and dare to try Kerali cuisine, you will discover some of the most exceptional fish curries in India.
One of my favorite restaurants is Wave. The German Bakery. Here you can enjoy a great coffee with a cake or cookie, or sit and enjoy a nice meal overlooking the sea. But don’t rush!
A typical dish from Kerala: Meen Moilee
You are craving for a fish curry that is not spicy. In Kerala they have one of the tastiest and most interesting ones. Based on coconut milk and curry leaves, ask for a fish moilee!
Where to stay in Kovalam
Kovalam had been a quiet beach, but today it is quite a bustling center with lots and many options for cheap hotels, luxury hotels and also Ayurveda centers for treatments and wellness stays.
The truth is that when I stay in the Kovalam area, I like to choose a location away from the hustle and bustle on the south coast of Kerala. There are many villages with quiet coastal areas that have beachfront resorts, Ayurveda centers and coconut groves to spend a few days in nature and pamper your body and mind.
Here are some ideas of hotels in Kovalam that I usually use in my private trips:
- Lake and Beach Ayurvedic Resort. A cheap hotel near Kovalam where you can enjoy nature, the sea and Ayurvedic massages at an excellent price. For those who do not mind traveling to Kovalam when they want a bit of atmosphere.
- Somatheeram. This is the best Ayurvedic resort in Kovalam. This clinic is prepared to accommodate patients with all the comforts during a panchakarma treatment. The beachfront resort is ideal for pampering and unwinding for a few days.
- Isola di Cocco in Poovar. You can stay in a complex of traditional huts with private access to a golden sand beach and spectacular Ayurvedic treatments. Their huts mimic traditional houses and take the famous shower of the stars, that is, that part of the bathroom has no roof. It is a pleasure to wake up in the morning and see the blue sky, but also to soak in a short shower. There is an Ayurvedic hospital adjacent to the resort.
If you want more accommodation options in Kovalam, you can check out the article with tips on how to book the perfect hotel in Kovalam.
Do you want to plan a trip to Kovalam on your own?
These are some tools to help you prepare for your travel to Kerala from home. It’s just about time to plan your next holidays!
PROFESSIONAL ETHICS. This post contains some affiliate links.
These links allow you to follow my recommendations and book them, and provide a little commission. Thus, you help keep this travel blog ad-free at no extra cost to you.
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