Athangudi tiles: the Indian hydraulic tiles from Tamil Nadu

Forget about Athangudi tiles. Surely, at first glance, India seems distant, exotic, hot and very different from what you are used to. However, there is always some element that brings two apparently very different countries closer together.

Today you will discover that European art nouveau and the mansions of southern India have something in common.

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The history of influences that come and go has not had to wait for globalization for us to find elements from far away countries in our daily lives.

If we dig a little, we find similarities, inspirations or uses similar to ours in the daily environment of other latitudes.

For example, when you were a child, I am sure you played parcheesi. Did you know that this board game was invented in India under the name of parchesee? Pachís (25) was what they told each other when they ate a chip.

Hydraulic pavements of India

Now look at the floor where your feet rest. If you do not have parquet, you may be stepping on a hydraulic tile. I’m referring to those that by joining them together make borders and continuous drawings throughout a room, and that recently have come back into fashion.

They were very common in the bourgeois houses of the late nineteenth and early twentieth century. In Gaudi’s buildings in Barcelona you will see a good selection of hydraulic floors.

Here is one of Europe’s connections to South India. In the area of Chettinadu in Tamil Nadu we find different workshops dedicated to the manufacture of hydraulic tiles.

The use of this technique may be due to the interest of the Chettiar caste traders in imitating European tastes at a time of growing international trade. The reality is that their designs of Chettinadu hydraulic floors are very characteristic of the region.

The town of Athangudi (ஆதங்குடி) in the state of Tamil Nadu gives its name to this pottery, which is why they are known in India as Athangudi tiles. However, this is not the only place where you can find hydraulic pavers in India.

How to reach Athangudi

The town of Athangudi is the most important center of hydraulic tile production in southern India. Athangudi can be visited en route from Kanadukathan to Karaikudi and Madurai. It’s a slight detour, but it won’t change your plans too much.

On a trip to South India, you can’t miss visiting one of the tile workshops at Athangudi. The visit becomes a didactic experience that helps to understand and recover the manual manufacturing process of the Athangudi tiles. The factories still work manually and maintain the traditional techniques of their production.

How to visit a workshop of Athangudi tiles

There is no interpretation center or museum that offers a didactic visit about the elaboration or the importance of these handicraft products. So, if you are interested in the creation of ceramics, you must visit a factory directly and trust the good work of your guide or the person who gives you the tour of the facilities.

Many workshops are open to visitors, although you should always check with the office. You may be asked for a contribution of the will or 100 rupees per visitor, as production will stop to show you the process. For travelers, it is symbolic, so be generous.

The visit to a factory is accompanied. Usually, a worker or owner who speaks English gives the tour. They are very basic explanations and any curiosity from visitors is welcome, so don’t be shy to ask questions. It will help you understand the process better. The facilities can be very dusty. The good news is that you don’t have to take off your shoes.

Manufacturing of Athangudi hydraulic tiles

In a quick and summarized way, the elaboration process consists of seven steps:

1/ The first step consists of preparing the frame and creating the design. Tiles can be designed freehand or with a mold. They are usually made with a mold to create those characteristic geometries of the hydraulic tile. A glass is placed at the bottom. The iron mold with the pattern is inserted into a wooden frame. In this way the paint can be poured and remains printed on the glass.

2/ When the iron mold is removed, the paint seems to get confused, but it is fixed on the side of the glass.

3/ The frame space is filled with sand and cement mixed to the thickness of the tile.

4/ The cement-covered mold is placed in a hydraulic press to compact the mixture.

5/ The piece is removed from the frame and placed to dry in the open air.

6/ Once dry, it is immersed with the glass still adhered to the tile.

7/ In the seventh and last step, the tile is left to dry in the open air until the glass comes off.

Some examples of Athangudi tiles floors

The palaces and mansions of Chettinadu often have a combination of hydraulic and pigmented cement floors.

You can see beautiful tiles in many towns in this region of Tamil Nadu. The town of Kanadukathan is very popular as it has several mansions that are very well-preserved and open to the public as hotels or for private visits.

The boldness of the color scheme makes the pavements of Chettinadu particularly attractive. In Athangudi itself, you can visit the Athangudi Palace. The floors of the place will take your breath away.

An original souvenir from Tamil Nadu

Athangudi tiles have a considerable weight, so you can’t take many pieces home with you. However, on a visit to a pottery workshop, you can buy individual pieces for 50–100 rupees.

You can see that the Athangudi tiles can be, undoubtedly, one of the original souvenirs of India to take home to decorate your house and have a little piece of this colorful country close by.

In addition, you will be contributing to maintaining a traditional way of elaboration and consuming local products. This is how it has been in my house.