India is the largest producer of tea in the world, with an annual production of over 1.3 million tons. Tea is an integral part of Indian culture and is consumed throughout the country, from the most remote villages to the big cities. Join me to explore Indian tea!
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What we talk about when we talk about Indian tea
Tea is an infusion of the leaves of Camellia Sinensis. This tree is grown as a shrub for ease of harvesting, but in the wild it can reach 10 meters. The tea plant is thus an evergreen shrub that can be found in warm, humid climates.
The most tender leaves of the young shoots are picked, treated and dried to obtain the tea infusion.
The infusion originated in China, where its history dates back to the second millennium BC. However, there is an Indian variant whose history is less well known and which is found in the wild in the northeastern region (Camellia Assamica).
History of tea in India
Tea consumption in India was first documented in the Ramayana (750-500 BC). However, over the next thousand years, mentions of tea drinking in India disappear.
Records resurface during the 1st century, with stories of the Buddhist monks Bodhidharma and Gan Lu, and their participation in tea ceremonies. Whether it is Chinese tea or indigenous tea is unclear, as the Assamese variant was not widely cultivated until the arrival of Europeans.
In the 16th century, the Portuguese introduced Chinese tea to India via their shipping routes. However, tea consumption was always an exception. It was not until the 19th century that tea cultivation became a major industry in India.
In 1834, the East India Company established the first tea plantation in Assam in northeast India. This plantation was a success and other plantations were soon established throughout India.
Tea cultivation in India was driven by the growing demand for tea in Europe. In the 19th century, tea became a popular beverage in Europe, and India became the main supplier of tea to the continent. It was somewhat later that tea consumption spread throughout India in its most popular form: masala chai.
India is currently the world’s largest producer of tea, with an annual production of more than 1.3 million tons. Tea is an integral part of Indian culture and is consumed throughout the country, from remote villages to large cities.
The quality of Indian teas
The climate and soil in various regions of India are ideal for tea cultivation. Indian tea growing areas are located at high altitudes, with mild temperatures and abundant rainfall. These factors contribute to the high quality of Indian tea. To distinguish them, it is also necessary to take into account:
- Production area
- Harvest season
- Leaves used
- Seeds or plant variety
- Fermentation
Below, I explain these elements that determine the taste and quality of an Indian tea.
1. Tea growing areas in India
The main tea-producing areas in India are in the northeast of the country, in the regions of Assam and Darjeeling.
- Assam is India’s largest tea producing region, accounting for about 50% of the country’s total production. It is situated in low hills near the Brahmaputra river valley. Assam tea is known for its strong and aromatic flavor. It is an infusion with a high caffeine content. In Assam, we find quality teas, but also mass production for everyday products. The second harvest of Assam tea is the best of the year.
- Darjeeling is a mountainous region located on the southern slopes of the Himalayas. Darjeeling tea is considered one of the best teas in the world. It is a black tea, light and aromatic, with notes of fruits and flowers. The most expensive teas in India are produced here: golden needles and silver needles, both with a high content of the most tender bud of the tea plant. The first and second harvests of Darjeeling tea are the best of the year.
- Dooars is a region located on the border between India and Bhutan. Dooars tea is similar to Assam tea, but has a milder and more complex flavor.
In addition to these three main regions, India also produces tea in other parts of the country, such as in the regions of Kerala, Karnataka and Tamil Nadu.
South Indian teas share characteristics with Sri Lankan or Ceylon tea. The tea bush here produces all 12 months of the year (although a little less in the winter months). They are black teas with a production oriented to low quality teas. They are usually mixed with natural or artificial flavorings and are the most common in tea bags.
2. Harvest season
In tea cultivation, a “flush” is a harvest of tea leaves. In the context of Indian tea, teas are harvested in four main crops:
- First flush. The spring harvest is the first harvest of the season. It takes place between April and May. The tea leaves of the first flush are the most tender, young and delicate, and have a light and aromatic flavor.
- Second flush. The summer harvest takes place between May and June. The tea leaves of this harvest are larger and more mature than those of the first harvest. They have a stronger and more complex flavor.
- Third flush. The monsoon harvest is carried out under the rainy season that lashes the Indian subcontinent. It takes place between June and July. The tea leaves of the third flush of the year are the largest and ripest of all, and have a stronger, earthier flavor.
- Fourth flush. The autumn harvest is the least appreciated for Indian teas, taking place in September or October. The plant makes its last efforts of growth before the winter period. It tends to give less production and the leaves of the infusion are less appreciated.
The flavor and aroma of each harvest of Indian tea is influenced by a number of factors, such as climate, soil, tea variety and processing method. In general, the first harvest provides the most delicate and aromatic teas, while the third harvest is considered the strongest and earthiest.
One Indian tea expert consulted states that as a rule Darjeelng teas are best in the first and second harvests, while the highest quality Assam teas are obtained in the second harvest.
3. Tea leaves used
In the tea plantations during the harvest, it is perfectly observed how the level of the leaves that are picked determines the quality of the teas that will be produced.
- The most basic Indian teas are harvested by mechanical means or with scissors to cut the whole bud, which is treated mechanically to separate the leaves from the branches. For powdered or bag teas, all the tender leaves are usually cut, up to the fifth leaf starting from the bud. This type of harvesting avoids that the final infusion contains only the most delicate leaves and, therefore, the leaves are cut into small pieces or even turned into powder.
- The most refined teas use mainly the last bud and the first leaf, which concentrate the softest and most delicate aromas. To preserve the most tender leaves, hand harvesting is preferred, often done by women. The best whole leaf teas come from hand-picking. These teas are more expensive because they involve, among other things, more labor for harvesting.
4. The tea seeds
When we talk about the seeds, we refer to the varieties of the tea bush. There are two main varieties that give rise to tea infusion:
- Camellia sinensis sinensis variety, preferred in East Asian teas
- Camellia sinensis assamica variety, preferred in Indian teas.
However, over the centuries crosses of species and preferences in seed selection have given many sub-variants of the tea camellia that produce teas with slight differences associated with the variety chosen.
The variety of camellia, together with the composition of the soil and the characteristics of the climate, can give a raw material with some differentiating elements.
5. Fermentation
Tea leaves are harvested and processed in different ways to produce different types of tea. From the very moment they are harvested, the leaves start to wither and an oxidation starts which determines the type of tea. With the same harvest, you could obtain all these teas depending on the amount of fermentation:
- White tea is the least processed of all teas. The tea leaves are harvested and gently dried. The most tender tea buds take on a grayish color. Gentle drying preserves the antioxidant properties of the tea leaves, which gives white tea its light and delicate flavor. In India, the most popular variety of white tea is Darjeeling silver needles. They are usually very expensive teas.
- Green tea is a less processed tea than black tea. The tea leaves are harvested and dried immediately after harvest. Rapid drying prevents oxidation (up to 5% fermentation), which gives green tea its green color and herbaceous flavor. It is the most produced and appreciated tea in China. Indian green tea is rare.
- Oolong tea is a semi-fermented tea (up to 50% of black tea). It is sometimes called blue tea. The tea leaves are partially oxidized before drying. Semi-fermentation gives oolong tea an intermediate flavor between black tea and green tea, intense, with floral and fruity notes. Many tea lovers prefer it for its antioxidant and purifying properties, but with less caffeine than black tea. The best oolong tea is produced in Taiwan and, in India, it is a quite exceptional product.
- Black tea is the most common type of tea in the world. It is produced by oxidizing tea leaves. The leaves are rolled and exposed to air, which causes oxidation. Oxidation gives black tea its dark color and strong, intense flavor, enhances the theine and thus makes for a more exciting brew. India is the largest producer of this black tea: Assam, Darjeeling and Nilgiri Hills teas are preferably black teas.
In India, the most common tea is black tea, the most widely consumed in the country and in Europe. Black tea is intense enough to mix with flavorings, add sugar and milk, or brew as a chai masala. White and green teas, on the other hand, prefer an infusion with just water to enjoy more subtle flavors.
India does not produce other types of tea that you can find in China such as red tea (pu-erh) or other teas from Japan such as green tea powder (matcha) or post-fermented tea.
Terms to understand the quality of Indian tea
It is common for quality Indian teas to be referenced with initials that indicate information about the amount of buds or tips contained in the blend, whether there are whole tender leaves or if they have been broken.
This nomenclature comes from the European tea trade and, therefore, is not common in Chinese teas. It is useful to recognize these acronyms in order to choose a good quality Indian tea.
Grading
In both black and green tea, we speak of grades to refer to the final size of the leaves in the infusion. It does not have a direct relationship with the quality of the tea, although the highest quality teas are usually presented in bulk and with whole leaves. On the other hand, bagged teas or bulk teas in powder or split leaf format are usually of lower quality. The gradations of Indian tea are as follows:
Leaf: Whole leaf tea.
Broken: Broken tea leaves, it is more substantial and stronger since breaking the leaves favors oxidation. It is designated with the letter B.
Fannings: This tea has been broken and has a size between B and D. It is separated from the powder by machine sieving.
Dust: This is tea ground to a fine powder. It is designated with the letter D. It is usually the tea found in tea bags.
Finest leaves
Other initials indicate the amount of tender leaves or buds in the blend. These are definitive to know if we are buying a quality Indian tea or a common tea.
OP (orange pekoe): noble, full-leafed.
P (pekoe): white hairs, small leaves, more ordinary than OP.
F (flowery): flowery; high bud content
G (golden): high content of golden buds of high quality.
Tippy: tea with a high proportion of white or golden tips
1 (one): used to describe a different size of leaves of the same grade.
F (fitness, when it is the second F in the acronym): the best tea.
S (special): old or exceptional vintage.
From FOP (flowery orange pekoe), i.e., with enough buds and noble leaves, the more letters the acronym that qualifies the Indian tea has, the higher its quality tends to be.
Chai, the most famous Indian tea
Chai masala is a beverage based on tea, milk and spices, which originated in India. The word “chai” means “tea” in Hindi and Urdu, so it is not correct to say chai tea (literally, tea tea).
Traditional chai is prepared with black tea, milk, sugar and spices such as cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, ginger and nutmeg. The spices are added to the boiling tea and boiled for a few minutes to release their flavor.
In popular wisdom, each season has its chai recipe that prepares the body to face cold, heat, humidity…. The spices are usually added fresh and not in a powdered mixture. This factor makes chai in India much more delicious than outside the country. Another element is the milk, which is usually less processed and has a more authentic taste.
Today, chai is the national drink of India and a staple in the daily life of Indians from all walks of life, but this was not always the case. Indians did not start drinking tea on a massive scale until an overproduction in British plantations in the 1930s, when the price of the infusion dropped drastically, and it began to be marketed among the local population.
